Replacing a Furrion AM/FM Radio

Gee what a hassle... :R
Gotta wonder why they do this stuff....

I guess I'm lucky with my 07, it was pretty painless to update the factory stereo. Actually, one of the reasons I did it is because half the bulbs in the factory unit were out. I went do the stealership to see about replacing a few 50 cent bulbs. Nope! No can do. Have to but a whole new stereo to get the bulbs working.
In my mind I had a 2 word 7 letter phrase as I politely said no thank you.
I could have ripped it open and soldered some bulbs in there, but, nah, why bother. I wanted BT, phone hands free, USB in and more. No brainer.

Glad you are getting that worked out!

The last aftermarket stereo I installed was in my 2013 F250, was able to integrate fairly easily with just the normal wiring adapters and a module for the steering wheel controls and normal cheap aftermarket front plate. I did have to dig around the fuse box to find a key switched power source.. For removed that from the wiring harness in favor of using CANBAN bus data to tell radio to power on/off..

Fast forward to 2019, aaaaand they went the stupid direction of the entire center stack including heat/AC controls 100% factory integrated.. $300 for a aftermarket center stack face plate and I would have to relocate the heat/AC controls onto the aftermarket plate.. Then to get rear camera requires another $300 for a module, then a another module to get the steering wheel controls.. More money for the wiring harness adapters and then the stereo.. I would lose the outside thermometer reading as that is integrated into the factory radio display..

The ultimate insult is Ford has intentionally hobbled the sound quality by filtering out much of the bass frequencies as you turn up the volume.

All in would cost $1,500-$2,000 to get a far better sounding stereo..

There are some aftermarket digital sound processors which can be adapted to the speaker outputs to restore the bass but then you must either hack the wiring or find some plugs that fit and then add new more powerful amps.

If and when the factory stereo bites the dust, I will pin a aftermarket stereo in a little cubby at the bottom of the center stack and run new wiring.. What a waste of space just to prevent folks from obtaining a better stereo quality..

Gdetrailer wrote:
snip

Too bad about the break in! Did you get it fixed up?

Sort of surprised they didn't go after the radio, but perhaps they were thinking about bigger things like chop shop parts or joyride..

Actually I did like the stereos which used a USB cable over the ones that have the USB port on the face.. The remote cable allows you to put the flash drive out of harms way. Having a USB drive sticking out of the face of the radio ups the level for accidentally breaking the drive or the radio port if you accidentally were to hit it with your hand or other items.

My current vehicles I have had to settle with using factory radios due to the massive integration of the radio into the operation of the vehicle.. Just too costly and time consuming to convert to aftermarket..

Not a fan of where the USB port was placed in the lower center stack.. If I had a third passenger in the front seat, they most likely would hit the drive with their legs and break both drive and port.. So, to get around that, I use the little micro size drives that look like a bump when plugged in..

It used to be a good neighborhood. It seems now nobody is immune to thievery.
I have it pretty much fixed up. Damage is repaired, steering column put back together. I bought the parts, repaired it myself.
My alarm has been disabled for years due to false alarms from sensor failure issues.... Shoulda fixed it a long time ago. I ordered a bunch of new parts for it. I have been working on that for the past couple weekends. All day yesterday, should have it finished today. All new toolbox sensors, locks, latches, new LED flasher modules for headlights, taillights. After many years, stuff breaks and wears out.

Most of the work is getting at the wiring, and then getting in there to solder and shrink tube connections. I don't bend like I used to! Extracting wiring from carefully stashed locations is tough. Just have to come up with a better way of doing the hood and tailgate triggers. Pin switches corrode and don't work long term.

As for the thieves taking the radio, they were after the whole truck so they could strip it elsewhere. When they failed to get mine, they stole a neighbors welding truck. They found it abandoned and stripped.

My stereo has 2 USB inputs. One is on the face. Using a regular memory stick is vulnerable, yes. Easy to accidentally hit it. I managed to find some super short 64 gig USB drives. They only protrude about 5/8", barely enough to pull it out. They are great!

Buying the aftermarket stereo from Crutchfield was a good choice. They have cables, modules etc that are vehicle specific to make it plug and play. My factory warning chimes work, albeit from a little speaker thing that comes with it. My steering wheel controls integrate nicely too. It's worth checking out to see if they offer the same for the newest vehicles. Crutchfield is amazing, and offer personalized assistance to everyone.

BobsYourUncle wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

BobsYourUncle wrote:
Gdetrailer, FYI, I have a Kenwood in both my truck and TT.
The rear USB comes with it's own extension built in. It's about 12 inches long or so.
On my truck I routed it out of the dash by the base of the steering column. No need for an extension.

The unit you describe here is excellent! Both of the Kenwoods I bought are entry level, but function very well in both the RV and my truck. :)

Roger that! The pix in the manual didn't show detail of USB cable on the back..

I would have recommended Clarion as my top choice, but the last several Clarions I bought, the mechs were 100% unreliable garbage that would skip if you managed to get it to recognize the disc after a yr or so..

Kenwoods or Pioneers would now be my top two choices to look at, JVC, perhaps.

But brands like Jensen, BOSS and BLAUPUNKT would not since they are bargain basement young teen that works at a burger joint pricing and quality level. Your not going to get much long lasting quality for a $50-$100 stereo with CD or DVD.

Coincidentally, I just happen to have a picture of it from the recent break in and attempted theft of my truck.
You can see the wire coming out by the steering column on the right and hanging down, and a memory stick plugged into it.
I think it's a bit longer than 12"

Too bad about the break in! Did you get it fixed up?

Sort of surprised they didn't go after the radio, but perhaps they were thinking about bigger things like chop shop parts or joyride..

Actually I did like the stereos which used a USB cable over the ones that have the USB port on the face.. The remote cable allows you to put the flash drive out of harms way. Having a USB drive sticking out of the face of the radio ups the level for accidentally breaking the drive or the radio port if you accidentally were to hit it with your hand or other items.

My current vehicles I have had to settle with using factory radios due to the massive integration of the radio into the operation of the vehicle.. Just too costly and time consuming to convert to aftermarket..

Not a fan of where the USB port was placed in the lower center stack.. If I had a third passenger in the front seat, they most likely would hit the drive with their legs and break both drive and port.. So, to get around that, I use the little micro size drives that look like a bump when plugged in..

Gdetrailer wrote:

BobsYourUncle wrote:
Gdetrailer, FYI, I have a Kenwood in both my truck and TT.
The rear USB comes with it's own extension built in. It's about 12 inches long or so.
On my truck I routed it out of the dash by the base of the steering column. No need for an extension.

The unit you describe here is excellent! Both of the Kenwoods I bought are entry level, but function very well in both the RV and my truck. :)

Roger that! The pix in the manual didn't show detail of USB cable on the back..

I would have recommended Clarion as my top choice, but the last several Clarions I bought, the mechs were 100% unreliable garbage that would skip if you managed to get it to recognize the disc after a yr or so..

Kenwoods or Pioneers would now be my top two choices to look at, JVC, perhaps.

But brands like Jensen, BOSS and BLAUPUNKT would not since they are bargain basement young teen that works at a burger joint pricing and quality level. Your not going to get much long lasting quality for a $50-$100 stereo with CD or DVD.

Coincidentally, I just happen to have a picture of it from the recent break in and attempted theft of my truck.
You can see the wire coming out by the steering column on the right and hanging down, and a memory stick plugged into it.
I think it's a bit longer than 12"

BobsYourUncle wrote:
Gdetrailer, FYI, I have a Kenwood in both my truck and TT.
The rear USB comes with it's own extension built in. It's about 12 inches long or so.
On my truck I routed it out of the dash by the base of the steering column. No need for an extension.

The unit you describe here is excellent! Both of the Kenwoods I bought are entry level, but function very well in both the RV and my truck. :)

Roger that! The pix in the manual didn't show detail of USB cable on the back..

I would have recommended Clarion as my top choice, but the last several Clarions I bought, the mechs were 100% unreliable garbage that would skip if you managed to get it to recognize the disc after a yr or so..

Kenwoods or Pioneers would now be my top two choices to look at, JVC, perhaps.

But brands like Jensen, BOSS and BLAUPUNKT would not since they are bargain basement young teen that works at a burger joint pricing and quality level. Your not going to get much long lasting quality for a $50-$100 stereo with CD or DVD.

@Gdetrailer
I appreciate the suggestions, but not one meets my specs. In fact I've seen and rejected most of them already. And since I'm not an audiophile (but am extremely tech and av experienced) I'll stick with my choices. Everything is a compromise, but we should be able to choose what gets prioritized.

Gdetrailer, FYI, I have a Kenwood in both my truck and TT.
The rear USB comes with it's own extension built in. It's about 12 inches long or so.
On my truck I routed it out of the dash by the base of the steering column. No need for an extension.

The unit you describe here is excellent! Both of the Kenwoods I bought are entry level, but function very well in both the RV and my truck. :)

RickLight wrote:

PButler96 wrote:
IRV were/are used in some Forest River brands, they're junk also. Send it back when it arrives and get a refund. They have the sound quality of a 1967 generic pocket transistor radio.

Can you suggest something better? DVD vastly preferred, HDMI not negotiable.

Kenwood DDX2768BT Indash DVD, BT, USB input (on the rear so you will need a short USB extension to make it easier to get to), Composite Analog video in and composit analog video out..

$269 HERE at Amazon..

Manual can be found HERE

If your TV has HDMI only input, then you need one of these..



Which is a composite analog video to HDMI scaler/converter for $14 HERE at Amazon. The scaler/converter takes care of the issue with non compatible video sources. Will need 12V to 5V USB power source but that is also easy to get.

I use a composite to HDMI for my legacy home video equipment, they work very well..

You do not need a HDMI output for playing a DVD, DVD is not High definition, it is strictly Standard Definition (SD) at 480i and looking for a DVD player with HDMI output doesn't improve SD video, it only makes the connection a bit easier.

Pioneer is also a good choice..

AVH-X390BS HERE

AVH-X2800BS HERE (note, this one has been discontinued so availability will disappear when stock runs out)

JVC would be another choice..

VC KW-V250BT HERE Marked as discontinued but still in stock.

If you are just looking for a 12V DVD player, you can buy standalone 12V DVD players.. Has HDMI output..



HERE

There are more 12V DVD players found HERE

Fisherman wrote:

Texas Nomad wrote:
Mission Accomplished! I removed the faceplate from the Furrion DV3100 and what did I find? A burned out 10 AMP blade fuse. Easy fix. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Now makes me wonder why did the fuse blow?

Yep. 10A fuses don't just "blow" for no good reason..

I suspect it is a temporary at best fix..