USB Ports, Adapters
Seems that many add-on devices for desktop and laptop computers now connect to USB ports (mouse, keyboard, external hard drive, printers, etc.). They make USB port adapters that can convert one port i...
Forum Discussion
If the OP's computer is more than five years old, he may have USB 2.0 ports, not USB 3.0. A quick way to tell is to look at the sockets. If the plastic inside the socket is blue, it is USB 3.0; if it is white, it is USB 2.0. This will put a limit on both the speed and the power available, as said.
Just to confuse things, most laptop mfrs use USB splitters on each side of the laptop, so that two ports on each side is actually only two USB ports total--again limiting bandwidth and available power.
The simplest USB 3.0 4-port UNpowered hubs cost around ten bucks and do a good job. Even if you have USB 2.0, I recommend you get a 3.0 splitter, such as made by Anker or Sabrent.
Any device that has its own power supply can run from an UNpowered USB hub. Sometimes they can benefit from a powered hub. I don't know why but I have a LOT of experience trying to get these stupid things to work together.
Sometimes a powered hub that's UNDER powered can makes things worse, even for powered devices. I have thrown away several UNDER powered USB hubs because I didn't read the specs carefully. What happens is that the USB controllers mistakenly think a device has been removed and disconnect it, sending my blood pressure skyrocketing.
If the OP has several devices that require power and the requirements exceed the 900ma PER SIDE, NOT PER SOCKET (because they're likely connected), then I highly recommend the Anker 7-port 35-watt USB 3.0 hub, about $50. Unfortunately it is the size and shape of a cartoon of cigarette packs, but it does the job well and saves my blood pressure.
Just to confuse things, most laptop mfrs use USB splitters on each side of the laptop, so that two ports on each side is actually only two USB ports total--again limiting bandwidth and available power.
The simplest USB 3.0 4-port UNpowered hubs cost around ten bucks and do a good job. Even if you have USB 2.0, I recommend you get a 3.0 splitter, such as made by Anker or Sabrent.
Any device that has its own power supply can run from an UNpowered USB hub. Sometimes they can benefit from a powered hub. I don't know why but I have a LOT of experience trying to get these stupid things to work together.
Sometimes a powered hub that's UNDER powered can makes things worse, even for powered devices. I have thrown away several UNDER powered USB hubs because I didn't read the specs carefully. What happens is that the USB controllers mistakenly think a device has been removed and disconnect it, sending my blood pressure skyrocketing.
If the OP has several devices that require power and the requirements exceed the 900ma PER SIDE, NOT PER SOCKET (because they're likely connected), then I highly recommend the Anker 7-port 35-watt USB 3.0 hub, about $50. Unfortunately it is the size and shape of a cartoon of cigarette packs, but it does the job well and saves my blood pressure.
