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sturglc's avatar
sturglc
Explorer
Jan 12, 2015

Adding eletrical to enclosed trailer

First of all forgive me, I know this topic has been discussed and there are a million different tutorials but I guess I need it simplified for me as to if my idea will work.

My wife and I are wanting to do a "semi" conversion on an enclosed trailer. By semi I mean we are adding a fold down bed, storage, shelving and lights. My questions comes in with the electrical. I get how to add the battery, fuse blocks, distribution blocks and all that, but we do want 110v for small stuff, and when I say small I mean like her flat iron and hair dryer (go ahead, I rolled my eyes too). If I'm lucky we may run a small fan.

Most everything I run in the trailer (small TV, coffee maker, lights, radio)will be 12v

So my plan is to add a deep cycle 12v battery (one to start with)and a 110V power inverter. So the obvious question is keeping the battery charged. From some things I've read I can run a smart/trickle charger from the battery and basically BACK to the battery thereby continuously keeping it charged. It will be charged off the vehicle when running, but we need a week of sustainable power at best.

Now, my next question is, if that will work, is it the best option? I mean the charger is running off one of the inverter plugs
continuously, running the inverter, thereby pulling from the battery only to put it back in the battery?

Right?

So the next option is that instead of a trickle charger we use a solar charger. Since the 110v will be used very little keeping the battery(s) charged for 12 volt is more important. It seems like a solar charger would be better for this, that way we only run the 110v/inverter when we need it.

If this is the better option my question would be on selecting solar panels. There are SO many to choose from and I was wondering if 1 (or 2) of the smaller ones from eBay would be good enough? I can get 30watts for 50ish dollars or 100watts for 100ish dollars. I'm just assuming bigger is better
  • pianotuna's avatar
    pianotuna
    Nomad III
    Jan 12, 2015
    Hi,

    You may find some better prices here:

    http://www.solarblvd.com/

    Currently their best price is $0.65 cents per watt.

    sturglc wrote:
    1+ on the LED lights and I think the solar panel was about 140.00
  • sturglc's avatar
    sturglc
    Explorer
    Jan 12, 2015
    1+ on the LED lights and I think the solar panel was about 140.00
  • tenbear's avatar
    tenbear
    Explorer
    Jan 12, 2015
    You might also consider changing your incandescent lights to leds. They use much less current for the same light. Lots of posts on the forum about conversion to leds.
  • pianotuna's avatar
    pianotuna
    Nomad III
    Jan 12, 2015
    How much for the panel?

    Use #10 wire for all the dc distribution. Fuse at 30 amps.

    If you want that hair drier you need to have a 2000 watt inverter generator.

    For tiny 120 volt loads a 300 watt inverter would be prudent.

    The battery charger needs to be high amperage unit if you plan to recharge from a generator. That will minimize generator run time.

    sturglc wrote:
    I've found a 100wat Everbrite solar panel that seems reasonable. I'll use the 2-GC-2 six volt batteries as suggested and the morningstar controller. Some 12v wall mounted plugs and a few hardwired 12v lights.This should be enough to run a few 12v lights, fan, small 12v appliances etc right? Distribution and fuses. done.

    As far as 110v power I can add a small tongue mounted generator and a good battery charger for the times when I do need limited 110 and if I have to charge the battery. Basic foundation I hope.
  • TOMMY47's avatar
    TOMMY47
    Explorer
    Jan 12, 2015
    That solar setup will easily run 12 volt appliances as long as you have sun. If you go to ebay, you can find solar kits. However, most of those controllers are cheap. The panels are aluminum framed and can be mounted to the roof.
    AGM batteries can be placed inside--No fumes or any fluids to check. Self contained.
    I would also carry a good, heavy duty extension cord when you get an opportunity to hook up. Also buy a cord that will convert 30 amp power to 15-20 amp. Those are about $10. Gives another option.
  • sturglc's avatar
    sturglc
    Explorer
    Jan 12, 2015
    This is the advise I needed.

    Okay, 2 phases, phase 1 being the 12volt power.

    This is what I'll mainly use when rough camping it. I've found a 100wat Everbrite solar panel that seems reasonable. I'll use the 2-GC-2 six volt batteries as suggested and the morningstar controller. Some 12v wall mounted plugs and a few hardwired 12v lights.This should be enough to run a few 12v lights, fan, small 12v appliances etc right? Distribution and fuses. done.

    As far as 110v power I can add a small tongue mounted generator and a good battery charger for the times when I do need limited 110 and if I have to charge the battery. Basic foundation I hope.

    I am an avid "rough" camper so I have plenty of camping gear when it comes to propane lanterns, cooking stoves/burners etc. We bought this trailer mainly for Sturgis this next year, but I'll also use it for camping/transporting all year long. That's one reason I want the system to be simple and if necessary, easily removed.
  • naturist's avatar
    naturist
    Nomad
    Jan 12, 2015
    Yeah, What they said: It won't work, it will be very expensive and never perform better than marginally. You are best advised to hook up to shore power when possible, and either lose the flat iron/hair tools, or buy a generator. Either of these will be way less expensive and work like a charm.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Jan 12, 2015
    First,,, Go with a pair of GC-2 six volt batteries in series, As DEEP CYCLE batteries go these give about the best bang for your buck (less you get a real good deal on something).

    Page 2: Inverters come in two flavors,, IF you get something equivlant of say my Prosine 2.0 (Only smaller) then here is how you wire it

    Power cord (30 amp) to 30 amp breaker to Inverter/Converter AC IN. (See notes)

    Batteries to Inverter/Converter 12 volt leads.

    Inverter AC-out to a breaker box (Sub panel is good you do not need a 2nd main breaker) from there to your outlets

    The in-line Inverter/Charger operatres like a UPS, it charges your batteries when shore power (or generator power) is present, and when you loose the "Mains" it switches over automatically. 2.0 (2,000 watts) can run a microwave but not for long with a single battery (two six volt in series = a single 12 volt battery size 4D).

    Recommended battery is one six volt pair per 1,000 watts of inverter or more.

    NOTE: The prosine 2.0 is no longer made, but many others work EXACTLY the same way. at least as far as this post is concerned (Minor differences in operational controls and such that do not matter for this thread).

    On the Prosine, you could put that 30 amp main breaker (the one on between the shore cord and the Inverter) in the connections compartment on the inverter itself, no need for a separate box.. Or you could mount it elsewhere.

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