Hello! Brand new today (I've been haunting for sometime though, finally had enough questions wracked up to join!). :-)I've been reading and reading, and reading some more and I can't find anything about the cost of maintaining either an A or a C (if one seems to have more issues than the other) or which one seems better equipped for towing. I know all this varies on make/model. We're a military family and on a budget. We homeschool and really want the freedom RVing can bring us. Hotel/food costs keep us from traveling as often as we want to, but after reading how much can go into an RV annually, we could save that and go on at least two small family vacations a year if the information is accurate. But that seems to vary in cost too from $300 a year to over $1200 a year (this doesn't include gas). For those of you who own and do general upkeep, how much do you typically spend annually (not including tire years)? Is this something a family on a budget can feasibly keep up with and still be able to enjoy the open road?The other big issue for us is towing. We need to be able to tow either a little Kia or a Nissan Xterra (which is heavy I just learned). I know the newer Class C's have decent towing capacity, but the older ones do not. Since down here in Dixie Class C's are triple the cost of Class A's used, we'd be looking at a newer model to get more bang for our buck (no point in paying 30k for a 1989 Class C when I can spend the same amount for a 2006 model). Or we can spend around 19k for a Class A of the same size, though older, with considerably less mileage. So there-in lies our dilemma. We're not so worried about living space/storage as we are about our long term costs. Does one COST more to maintain than the other? Is one significantly better for towing than the other?Thank you so very much for your input and help!

Welcome!To get very accurate, you'll need to narrow it down to certain years and sizes, but IN GENERAL, and taking Ford as an example (they are the dominant player):C's are on either the 350 or 450 series chassis. A will be on the 550 (aka F53). So the A as a general rule has a higher weight rating and more towing capacity. The engines and transmissions for similar years will be almost identical across the whole range.There's a lot of variation, so a small C on a 450 chassis may have higher capacities than a large A on a marginal 550 chassis.Maintenance needs between a gas C and a gas A are nearly identical. I would much rather work on the A because there's more room underneath.You didn't really ask, but I doubt you can operate an RV less expensively than hoteling. Maybe if you don't drive it very much...In 6 months and 10k miles we have done two oil changes on the engine and one on the Gen, so somewhere around $100 I suppose. I do my own work.Best of luck on your search.

Towing capacity is based on the chassis not the year of the coach. So don't be so quick to write off an older coach. DP Class A is a whole different animal, yes 'they' can tow heavier toads.That said. It is easier to get a Class C into a repair shop while on the road RV'ing. It is nothing more than a truck/van so the repair shops and Ford/Chevy dealerships are not so hesitant to take you in.That was the main reason I choose a Class C for my first MH. I traveled with friends with Class A's and saw first hand the difficultly they had getting repairs on the road while I did not. They often where held hostage by having to use very costly RV dealerships. Just saying.

Thank you so much for your reply!We checked yesterday and we could drive five hours south of us to the beach for $65 in gas (which is comparable to my Xterra actually) and then $20 a night to stay on base. Providing our own food, we're saving a lot due to hotel rooms being $120 on average at the beach. Now I know you take into consideration the cost of maintaining the vehicle and the savings dwindle. But, your comfort and freedom (and the ability to load of up and go when you have the $300 in the bank for a week trip to the beach) is really exciting for me to consider. But I certainly don't want to get an RV and we can't go anywhere because all our extra income is going to just maintaining the thing....

Well, if you can save $100 a night, that's a good start. I love RV'ing, so don't take this wrong. If you do this 30 nights a year, that's saving you $3,000. Depreciation and maintenance will probably eat all of that and more.A MH will burn twice the gas your Nissan does. If you're lucky.I would love to see you get into this, but don't let the rose colored glasses affect your math.You'll get a lot of great feedback around here from people with probably sharper pencils than I have when it comes to economical RVing.Hope to see you in the CG some day.

The cost over time will be about even whether a Class "A" or CLASS "C" or staying in a budget hotel.If you are trying to save money by getting an RV you will be disappointed.First off even though you discounted tires, the first thing you will probably buy is tires. ANY RIG with tires over 5 years old MOST LIKELY needs new tires even if the tread looks new. Figure $1500 for them.The older the rig the more upkeep is necessary. MY class "A" cost me about $2500.00 in the last year to maintain. Things wear out and need replacing BEFORE THEY BREAK to try and avoid on the road problems.Recaulking the roof. Repacking bearings, brakes, transmission oil change etc. If you do not know for sure that a maintenance item was DONE BEFORE YOU BOUGHT IT then, it was not done and you NEED to do it.I would hazard to guess that the first year you own a used rig is the most expensive as far as scheduled maintenance costs.

Class A vs Class C: Maintenance and Towing | Good Sam Community

18 Replies

Sestilw
Explorer
Oct 31, 2014
Gas is going down here right now, so I think it figured current (we're around $2.60 a gallon right now). But I think we're leaning more towards the truck/travel trailer option, it just seems more budget friendly as far as maintance/gas is concerned. :) I am a little disappointed (okay a lot), but we want to enjoy it, not stress about being able to afford just the upkeep alone.
Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Oct 31, 2014
"We checked yesterday and we could drive five hours south of us to the beach for $65 in gas"

Not sure who you checked with but the math is more than a little fuzzy. Five hours of driving at 60 will take you 300 miles. If you got 10 mpg (which is not going to happen), you would be looking at 30 gallons X $3 a gallon = $90. Real world cost closer to $120.

:h
Sestilw
Explorer
Oct 31, 2014
Thank you! That was my biggest concern. I knew buying used, unless the owner had documentation concerning tires, that would be our first major expense.

My husband has now decided he wants to get a pick up truck and buy a travel trailer. I'm not seeing any that compare to Class A's (or even C's) as far as comfort go, but we haven't done any serious looking yet either since I'd been leaning towards the Motorhome versus a trailer. He spoke to some friends who cut their expenses by half going the trailer route versus the motorhome.

We DO want to be able to load up and go and perhaps the truck/trailer is the best route for us to go to accomplish this. :)
darsben
Explorer II
Oct 31, 2014
The cost over time will be about even whether a Class "A" or CLASS "C" or staying in a budget hotel.
If you are trying to save money by getting an RV you will be disappointed.
First off even though you discounted tires, the first thing you will probably buy is tires. ANY RIG with tires over 5 years old MOST LIKELY needs new tires even if the tread looks new. Figure $1500 for them.
The older the rig the more upkeep is necessary. MY class "A" cost me about $2500.00 in the last year to maintain. Things wear out and need replacing BEFORE THEY BREAK to try and avoid on the road problems.
Recaulking the roof. Repacking bearings, brakes, transmission oil change etc. If you do not know for sure that a maintenance item was DONE BEFORE YOU BOUGHT IT then, it was not done and you NEED to do it.

I would hazard to guess that the first year you own a used rig is the most expensive as far as scheduled maintenance costs.
Ductape
Explorer
Oct 31, 2014
Well, if you can save $100 a night, that's a good start. I love RV'ing, so don't take this wrong. If you do this 30 nights a year, that's saving you $3,000. Depreciation and maintenance will probably eat all of that and more.

A MH will burn twice the gas your Nissan does. If you're lucky.

I would love to see you get into this, but don't let the rose colored glasses affect your math.
You'll get a lot of great feedback around here from people with probably sharper pencils than I have when it comes to economical RVing.

Hope to see you in the CG some day.
Sestilw
Explorer
Oct 31, 2014
Thank you so much for your reply!

We checked yesterday and we could drive five hours south of us to the beach for $65 in gas (which is comparable to my Xterra actually) and then $20 a night to stay on base. Providing our own food, we're saving a lot due to hotel rooms being $120 on average at the beach. Now I know you take into consideration the cost of maintaining the vehicle and the savings dwindle. But, your comfort and freedom (and the ability to load of up and go when you have the $300 in the bank for a week trip to the beach) is really exciting for me to consider.

But I certainly don't want to get an RV and we can't go anywhere because all our extra income is going to just maintaining the thing....
rockhillmanor
Explorer II
Oct 31, 2014
Towing capacity is based on the chassis not the year of the coach. So don't be so quick to write off an older coach. DP Class A is a whole different animal, yes 'they' can tow heavier toads.

That said. It is easier to get a Class C into a repair shop while on the road RV'ing. It is nothing more than a truck/van so the repair shops and Ford/Chevy dealerships are not so hesitant to take you in.

That was the main reason I choose a Class C for my first MH. I traveled with friends with Class A's and saw first hand the difficultly they had getting repairs on the road while I did not. They often where held hostage by having to use very costly RV dealerships. Just saying.
Ductape
Explorer
Oct 31, 2014
Welcome!

To get very accurate, you'll need to narrow it down to certain years and sizes, but IN GENERAL, and taking Ford as an example (they are the dominant player):

C's are on either the 350 or 450 series chassis. A will be on the 550 (aka F53). So the A as a general rule has a higher weight rating and more towing capacity. The engines and transmissions for similar years will be almost identical across the whole range.

There's a lot of variation, so a small C on a 450 chassis may have higher capacities than a large A on a marginal 550 chassis.

Maintenance needs between a gas C and a gas A are nearly identical. I would much rather work on the A because there's more room underneath.

You didn't really ask, but I doubt you can operate an RV less expensively than hoteling. Maybe if you don't drive it very much...

In 6 months and 10k miles we have done two oil changes on the engine and one on the Gen, so somewhere around $100 I suppose. I do my own work.
Best of luck on your search.

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Class A vs Class C: Maintenance and Towing

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