Grit dog wrote:
Never heard of clear coat on gel. Maybe it's a RV thing not a boat thing.
Be careful about the 400 grit advice. It's not that simple.
Yes for verrrry bad oxidation one would possibly start with 4-600 grit and then work up thru several stages to polish but 400 grit alone will just leave the surface dull AND scratched.
Most oxidation will come off with a med/heavy cut compound then polish.
Oh, someone be specific please on the differences between a "gel coat specific" wax and non gel wax.
I can say for certainty that after years of fiberglass boat ownership that there is no wax that messes up gel coat. Some last longer , some get a deeper shine out of dark colors. None of them are detrimental to gel coat.
FYI. In the early 80s. Gel coats began to be covered with clear coat. At first only on metal flake, then as the technology progressed, on all gel coats, and paints. As the repair Fiberglass "doctor" for new boats. It was my job to make sure every boat's finish was perfect. I assure you. Gel Coat was covered with Clear Coat. We had to learn a whole new way of polishing boats.
Before clear coat, You could in fact bring back a badly faded boat with 400 grit water paper, WATER paper being the key. then just buff it, and wax it. What you did was just take off the top layer of the gel coat. Now with the gel coat being covered with clear coat. You can't sand it any more, and can't wax it with an abrasive wax. As it does scratch it.
Now, any Clear Coat safe wax will work on a fiberglass Gel Coated finish.
Fact is. the FIRST ting that happens to a boat during the building process, IS that it gets waxed. Yep you wax the Mold, which is made of Gel coat covered glass. IF there is to be a special design, it is put on backwards at this time. Then you spray the mold with Clear coat, then Gel coat, and then you start laying up the fiberglass. When finished. It is popped out of the mold, already Waxed, clear coated. Ready to go to the trim shop.
In todays world of vacume bonding. It's a little different.