Doing the math ....

Sorry, sloppy reading on my part. My advice was for new, not used. Used, the only thing you have to go on is the NADA guide which only quotes average and low retail. These numbers may or may not apply to your area. You can also look on Craigslist for your area and see what similar units are listed for. It takes some time and diligence that way because you have watch and see which ones sell and which ones are relisted time and time again. I called my credit union and asked them how they valued an RV for a loan and found that they would use average retail with only a plus or minus for mileage. Private sellers are not retail although that didn't matter to our CU. They allowed no extra for any options. Figure no dealer would pay above low retail for any RV. I used that as my guide when I found an RV I wanted to offer on.

What the current owner owes should have no impact on what you pay for the RV. Why should you assume the loss for their poor bargaining ability? This is one of those instances that you have to let your head rule your heart as much as you can. You also have to weigh finding the perfect RV for you and reflect upon the possibility of losing it if you are too parsimonious. That said, you can always increase an offer but it is real hard to lower it. If you can, try to keep it from becoming adversarial and help the seller work towards making a deal that works for BOTH of you.

You did not say which TT you are looking at. Some are listed here: Click

NekkidFish wrote:

ol' yeller wrote:
Your math is OK but why are you giving up money to the dealership (15%)? I would start my offer at 30% off MSRP ($52,500) and probably settle in the 25% off range around $56,250 at the highest. They are still making money at 30% off MSRP if that worries you.

Alright then!!

Here's another question. What if the original owner of the unit paid too much originally? Does that impact the price in any way? (I hope that makes sense.)

yes and no now you are talking used and most likely as is because that is the way with most used units.
I feel you are trying to play close to the vest here but frankly all the facts would be helpful.
Make model year etc how many miles if MH etc
On a used unit the 30% rule does not apply as much The dealer is free to mark it up 1000% if he wants.
the best you can do is look at the NADA prices and find comparable online and go from there.

ol' yeller wrote:
Your math is OK but why are you giving up money to the dealership (15%)? I would start my offer at 30% off MSRP ($52,500) and probably settle in the 25% off range around $56,250 at the highest. They are still making money at 30% off MSRP if that worries you.

Alright then!!

Here's another question. What if the original owner of the unit paid too much originally? Does that impact the price in any way? (I hope that makes sense.)

Your math is OK but why are you giving up money to the dealership (15%)? I would start my offer at 30% off MSRP ($52,500) and probably settle in the 25% off range around $56,250 at the highest. They are still making money at 30% off MSRP if that worries you.

No one knows the actual wholesale price to a dealer. There are to many variables in a relatively unregulated market. Like sites that supposedly tell you the wholesale price of autos the RV sites do not know. Additionally you will find different RV dealer have different LIST PRICES for the exact same unit.
Now you are really confused HUH.
Anyone who claims to know what a dealer of RV''s paid for a unit is not telling the truth.