Draining water heater, put anode back in or not?

Op here, couple thoughts...

Magnesium rod versus aluminum rod question.....


Here is what back of package says:

The sacrificial magnesium anode equalizes aggressive water action providing cathodic protection for the tank. The anode rod is a very important factor in tank life and should only be removed for inspection or draining. Replacement of the anode rod is recommended when consumption or weight loss is greater than 75%. With regular inspection and replacement of anode rod, tank life can be greatly extended. Frequency of anode replacement will vary depending on the water conditions and usage. Operating the water heater without the anode voids the manufactures limited warranty and shortens the tank life of the water heater. In most conditions, anode rod should last at least one year. If your magnesium anode rod does last for one year, you may want to use aluminum anode rod (p/n 232768). Alum rods react slower and should be used only in situations where magnesium anode rods do not last one year.

Other thoughts.

Being the manufacture recommends replacement when 75% of rod is gone. That 75% went somewhere, I wondered what the daily recommended amount is for magnesium. Turns out its good for you. The benefits of RVing...who knew?

http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-and-supplements/lifestyle-guide-11/supplement-guide-magnesium

Thanks for clarifying Old-Biscuit.

Tim

GoPackGo wrote:
One thing to be aware of is that Suburban sells two different anode rods. One is made of magnesium and one is made of aluminum. The version that came installed in your water heater is the mag one. It deteriorates faster then the alum one and Suburban states to use the mag one as long as it lasts at least a year. I think it provides better protection because it breaks down faster. They look about the same and when shopping for a replacement, you have to read the packaging closely to see which one you've got.

I've also seen the ones at CW that have the built-in drain valve. As I recall, the anode itself is made of aluminum and is also fairly short.

I personally will only use the mag ones. I WANT them to deteriorate at a good rate. I'm just a little uncomfortable about using the aluminum version.

FWIW, all the non-Suburban anode rods I've seen at CW seem to be made of aluminum.


My .02

Tim

Suburban OEM anode rod is magnesium because they do deteriorate quicker.......but there is a reason that aluminum ones are available.

Magnesium can react with microbes/bacteria in some water source and create sulfurous smell/taste.....aluminum won't.

But aluminum can have a build of deposits on the rod which can make it difficult to remove thru drain hole.

Magnesium last longer when water is 'hard' and aluminum last longer if water softener is used.

I was able to pick up 2 magnesium anodes from CW. The label states "Suburban Magnesium Anode Rod". I also have an Aulm one, picked up by mistake couple trips ago.

New Anodes have different packaging and no longer have the teflon taped at bottom.

One thing to be aware of is that Suburban sells two different anode rods. One is made of magnesium and one is made of aluminum. The version that came installed in your water heater is the mag one. It deteriorates faster then the alum one and Suburban states to use the mag one as long as it lasts at least a year. I think it provides better protection because it breaks down faster. They look about the same and when shopping for a replacement, you have to read the packaging closely to see which one you've got.

I've also seen the ones at CW that have the built-in drain valve. As I recall, the anode itself is made of aluminum and is also fairly short.

I personally will only use the mag ones. I WANT them to deteriorate at a good rate. I'm just a little uncomfortable about using the aluminum version.

FWIW, all the non-Suburban anode rods I've seen at CW seem to be made of aluminum.


My .02

Tim

path1 wrote:
For another non RV project I reduced my wet/dry hose size using clamps and vinyl tubes to get out water out of a real small place.

When changing my anode I thought about sucking out the water out of the bottom of hot water tank and then letting it dry out, then put anode back in. My thinking was no water, no rust. Then I think about a hollow steel container would just slow down the process and not be worth the hassle.

Wonder why you can get propane tanks made of fiberglass and not hot water heaters?

You can get 'hot water heaters' in fiberglass...they are called containers

But in order to heat water to make it hot....fiberglass just wouldn't take the heat of propane flame.
Course you could submerge a electric heating coil in a fiberglass container and heat water........hummmmmmmmmmmm

For another non RV project I reduced my wet/dry hose size using clamps and vinyl tubes to get out water out of a real small place.

When changing my anode I thought about sucking out the water out of the bottom of hot water tank and then letting it dry out, then put anode back in. My thinking was no water, no rust. Then I think about a hollow steel container would just slow down the process and not be worth the hassle.

Wonder why you can get propane tanks made of fiberglass and not hot water heaters?

Wishbone51 wrote:
I don't know if I'm doing anything majorly wrong, but I use no attachment when flushing out the water heater. I hold the hose to the opening, let it run for 20 seconds, let go and it whooshes out. I can stick my finger in and feel all the sediment on the bottom. Once I can feel no sediment, I'm done. Am I missing anything by not using the flushing attachment?

The ability to stick 'wand' inside WH tank, direct wand upward and rinse/flush top of tank and down the walls.
I like having that ability.

As for the sediment in bottom of tank.
I use a different method cause it's hard to really flush thru drain hole when something is sticking in thru drain hole.

After using wand to rinse/flush WH tank I remove it then go turn on water supply to RV (either via city water or pump). This gives me FULL water pressure with a WIDE OPEN drain hole. Talk about 'flush'.

Water and crud shoot out. Couple full blasts like that and the junk in bottom of WH tank is blown out. Then final rinse with wand and let it drain/dry.

The above method works very well with the Atwood WH due to drain hole only being 1/2" vs Suburbans being 3/4" (so should really blow out Suburbans)

I don't know if I'm doing anything majorly wrong, but I use no attachment when flushing out the water heater. I hold the hose to the opening, let it run for 20 seconds, let go and it whooshes out. I can stick my finger in and feel all the sediment on the bottom. Once I can feel no sediment, I'm done. Am I missing anything by not using the flushing attachment?

When we're not using our camper and drain the water heater I leave my anode tube out. I made a vent plug with a fine screen to keep out bugs. It's a plastic fitting with proper size threads on one end and a nipple for rubber hose on the other. I wrapped the nipple end with screening which is held in place with a hose clamp. That allows the tank to dry. Even when you drain the tank a bit of water remains. I prefer to let the tank dry so that water doesn't sit in the bottom of the tank.