Newbie Questions
Hi Folks! Newbie from Vancouver Island looking for help with my novice questions, as well as hints and sound advice, from the more experienced. With a great deal of persuasion from the Wife, I have...
Forum Discussion
Thank you all for some excellent suggestions and ideas!
I'm going to start a My Documents RV file folder, and start listing all these for future reference.
One thing I'm a little fuzzy on was this business of a surge protector, which was mentioned by two members.
I am familiar with the power bar type, usually used in a home for computers and such, but is there ones especially designed for RV's. Does it plug in between the campsite power plug and your RV's power cord, to regulate all power going to the unit? Do they allow for the higher amperage plug, 20 amp or whatever it is, so you can still run your roof AC?
Good point about the RV having two dump valves! I kind of figured that the sewer hook-ups in the campsites were actually for both systems..lol. So if they are for the grey water only, perhaps the need for a slinky type device is pointless. Just walk the hose when you are packing up, as it's not like there would be the potential for plugging the hose, as a flat laying black water drain hose would be.
I also understand the need for hanging on to some grey water, for flushing out the hose, after dumping your black water tank. I guess the trick is to always keep a little grey water in reserve!
The fellow at the RV store that I was at yesterday, told me what he did was to use a section of solid pipe, cut in half, to act as a cradle for his dump hose. He cut various plywood pieces to sit under it, to get the proper slope. Not a bad idea, and certainly cheaper than buying a slinky for $59..
Our RV came with a heavy brass piece, that is attached to the end of the fresh water hose. I'm pretty sure that is a water pressure regulator, although I have no idea what pressure it is set for, or if it is adjustable. Looks just like this one.
http://www.macandchris.com/images/waterpresreg3.jpeg
The site where this one was pictured mentions that these type, along with other ones they tried (plastic ones), didn't make for a very good shower as they only has about a 1/4" opening in them. (Guess I'll find out..) The author suggested using a Watts brand adjustable regulator with gauge. At around $40 bucks, he claimed this was a very wise investment.
John Wayne, I'd love a GPS with back up camera, as that would kill two birds with one stone! After reading several reviews, it appears that some wireless ones can sometimes be an issue, as the camera signal gets dropped. I see the Garmin GPS model you mentioned has the larger 7" screen which I like..I'll have to check the reviews on that one..
Old guy mentions getting a bypass and blow out plug, for winterizing the water system. I was really disappointing to find our unit did not have a bypass already installed. This meant for using a lot of RV anti-freeze, to insure it was throughout the system, for both hot and cold water lines. (I guess I better learn how to do plumbing before next winter). A friend told me about blowing the system free of water, and it certainly makes more economical sense. The only concern I had was if the water pump itself would allow air to pass through it, and clear it out?
I'm going to start a My Documents RV file folder, and start listing all these for future reference.
One thing I'm a little fuzzy on was this business of a surge protector, which was mentioned by two members.
I am familiar with the power bar type, usually used in a home for computers and such, but is there ones especially designed for RV's. Does it plug in between the campsite power plug and your RV's power cord, to regulate all power going to the unit? Do they allow for the higher amperage plug, 20 amp or whatever it is, so you can still run your roof AC?
Good point about the RV having two dump valves! I kind of figured that the sewer hook-ups in the campsites were actually for both systems..lol. So if they are for the grey water only, perhaps the need for a slinky type device is pointless. Just walk the hose when you are packing up, as it's not like there would be the potential for plugging the hose, as a flat laying black water drain hose would be.
I also understand the need for hanging on to some grey water, for flushing out the hose, after dumping your black water tank. I guess the trick is to always keep a little grey water in reserve!
The fellow at the RV store that I was at yesterday, told me what he did was to use a section of solid pipe, cut in half, to act as a cradle for his dump hose. He cut various plywood pieces to sit under it, to get the proper slope. Not a bad idea, and certainly cheaper than buying a slinky for $59..
Our RV came with a heavy brass piece, that is attached to the end of the fresh water hose. I'm pretty sure that is a water pressure regulator, although I have no idea what pressure it is set for, or if it is adjustable. Looks just like this one.
http://www.macandchris.com/images/waterpresreg3.jpeg
The site where this one was pictured mentions that these type, along with other ones they tried (plastic ones), didn't make for a very good shower as they only has about a 1/4" opening in them. (Guess I'll find out..) The author suggested using a Watts brand adjustable regulator with gauge. At around $40 bucks, he claimed this was a very wise investment.
John Wayne, I'd love a GPS with back up camera, as that would kill two birds with one stone! After reading several reviews, it appears that some wireless ones can sometimes be an issue, as the camera signal gets dropped. I see the Garmin GPS model you mentioned has the larger 7" screen which I like..I'll have to check the reviews on that one..
Old guy mentions getting a bypass and blow out plug, for winterizing the water system. I was really disappointing to find our unit did not have a bypass already installed. This meant for using a lot of RV anti-freeze, to insure it was throughout the system, for both hot and cold water lines. (I guess I better learn how to do plumbing before next winter). A friend told me about blowing the system free of water, and it certainly makes more economical sense. The only concern I had was if the water pump itself would allow air to pass through it, and clear it out?
