Parking RV at home

Are you parking on pavement? If you are on dirt I would put something under the tires such as gravel, treated wood or concrete blocks.

If this will be the normal situation install a dedicated circuit for the trailer. Use a surge protector at the recepticle box and then plug into the surge protector.
I have mine in my yard and use it all the time, refrigerator is stocked with refreshments and I can turn on the A/C if I want to and even watch TV....sometimes the bed calls me in for a nap.

The ability to keep your rig at home is you are able to do your maintenance at your lesiure and its a lot more secure than a storage lot.

great time to crawl under the rv and seal any holes and around plumbing going threw the floor. a mouse can get threw a hole the size of a dime. theres all kinds of sealers, I use spray foam.

Don't know where you are parking it or if HOA allow but if you can, ther is no better place to park it than at home. Easy to load for a trip, and if the power goes out you still have a place to cook dinner if needed. If you are able to park at home, I would set up an RV metal carport and call it good. Run some power to it and run a small heater in the winter to keep it dry and smelling good.

In addition, check with local ordinances or HMO rules (if applicable)

This is why I don’t have an HMO or live in an HOA. Too many rules :B.

Dave

All above advice is what I would suggest. In addition, check with local ordinances or HMO rules (if applicable) to find out any restrictions/rules on RV parking at home. Some towns require RV's and boats if stored at home meet existing setbacks, others don't care. Some communities require them to be stored on concrete, asphalt, brick driveways, etc. while some don't allow it at all. Just a phone call usually needed if you haven't already done that. Enjoy RVing!

Hi.. Congrats on your new RV... if it is parked on the street check with the city about regulations on length of time it can be on 4th street. Our city regulations allow for 48 hours only then it must be moved. Jim2007.

I suggest you install a GFCI outlet on the circuit used for the RV.

2chiefsRus wrote:
Hard to know what to tell you when you just say RV which could be anything from a pop-up to a 40+ foot Class A motorhome. I normally consider an RV a vehicle but some people call their travel trailers an RV.

And I know people who call Prevost coaches a camper and call TT's motorhomes.

When I had mine at home I plugged it in and leveled it.. I put in a TT-30 (20 amp breaker but TT-30 outlet) for it. NOTE: this is a 120 volt outlet (many electricians will want to wire it for 240 but that will damage your RV) if you hire an outlet put in put in a 50 amp those they do right. you can then adapt to your rig if you have to (mine is a 50 amp rig so I had to but the 20 amp line was already in place which is why I went the route I did)

That is really the only advice

You can plug into a common 15 amp outlet as well with an adapter that's just about enough power to top off the batteries and power the fridge. Not much more till the batteries are full