Towing Help...(I know another one)

If this is your first travel trailer purchase, and considering your tow vehicle, I'd suggest a smaller trailer around 6000-6500lbs gross weight. There are plenty in that weight range that are roomy enough for a family of 4. We have a family of 6 with a 5000lbs trailer. You may find that a 30' trailer is too much trailer for your towing comfort.

westend wrote:
...and using the cargo capacity numbers on your driver's side door label, "Cargo and capacity should not exceed....". That label number will be your payload capacity and all passengers, cargo, tongue load, and weight of WDH should not exceed that number. The payload number is the definitive limit for 1/2 ton pickups and TT towing numbers. Forget about the rest.

There it is, and this is where most folks get jammed up with RV towing. The tow rating is fine for boats and utility trailers, but is meaningless with RVs. Why? Because RVs add more weight on the tongue, which is weight that must be carried by the truck. AQ typical travel trailer (TT) puts 13% of it's total weight on the tongue.

Keystone Cougar 28RBS
Dry Weight:6338lbs
Hitch Weight:955lbs

In this case tongue weight is 15% of total. A typical family adds about 1000 lbs or ,more top an RV with clothes, food, pots/pans, etc, depending on how much storage you have. So if you add 1000 to 6338 = 7338 x 15% on the hitch = 1100 lbs that the TT will add to the truck. Add 4 passengers and whatever is in the truck bed and you will be waaay over the cargo limit of the truck.

It's not just 150/1500's that have this issue...my TT is 8500 lbs loaded with 1200 on the hitch. With a family of four I run right at the 8600 lb GVWR, even though the "tow rating" is 12,000 lbs.

FWIW, changing gears and adding power doesn't do anything to change carrying capacity of the truck. The tires need a higher load rating, and in turn the rims need a higher load rating, as do the springs, brakes, axles, etc. Even if you swapped out rims/tires, added air bags to level the rear, added a tuner for the 5.0 to increase HP, the trans or diff is likely to give up. For all the $$ you spend in upgrades you can get a nice 2500 truck and be done with it. OR, get a smaller TT and put that cash back in your pocket.

First, you need to know what your truck has when built. You can find this out by the numbers on the VIN and the other placards on the vehicle. There are online resources for this or you can contact the dealer.

After you know what packages you have with the truck, you can find out what is towable with the Ford Towing Guide and using the cargo capacity numbers on your driver's side door label, "Cargo and capacity should not exceed....". That label number will be your payload capacity and all passengers, cargo, tongue load, and weight of WDH should not exceed that number. The payload number is the definitive limit for 1/2 ton pickups and TT towing numbers. Forget about the rest.

Two choices here: MORE truck or MUCH LESS trailer

GoPackGo wrote:
The dry weight of the camper does not matter. Your truck needs to be rated to tow the GVWR of that camper, which will probably be over 8,000 pounds.

The hitch weight will be higher due to that also.

I don't understand what the bumper has to do with it.

Tim

X2

WHAT!!!! I hope you don't tow it with the bumper. You need a frame mounted hitch for this trailer and a distribution hitch. Even then, I have to agree, if your truck is rated at 7500 lbs, you will be overweight.

The dry weight of the camper does not matter. Your truck needs to be rated to tow the GVWR of that camper, which will probably be over 8,000 pounds.

The hitch weight will be higher due to that also.

I don't understand what the bumper has to do with it.

Tim

By time you load he trailer, you will be at or over max. And with that tongue weight, close to 1100lbs or more when loaded, you may be over the hitch rating and/or payload when loaded.