Water Heater Drain Valves..are they worth it?

poppin_fresh wrote:
I have used a water filter with my camper since new, so I'm really wondering just how much sediment and crud I could have in my HW tank that would require flushing?

I don't necessarily mind pulling the plug, but what I hate is all that water splashing into the compartment. It wouldn't take much of a leak in the corners where the hinge/sealant is, to allow a lot of water behind the wall.

All I can tell you is on my last trailer I had a WH with the metal drain plug with the electrode and because it got stuck I never removed it for over 15 years until I replaced the entire WH just from age. At replacement it was still working great so my experience was these WH are very sturdy ... I'm not saying I would recommend that, but it is a valid data point of one based on what some would say an "EXTREME EXAMPLE".

Larry

Dutch_12078 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:

katysdad wrote:
Don't put anything but a nylon plug in a Atwood water heater. Dissimilar metals will freeze in the aluminum tank fitting.

CPVC plugs from the hardware store work well too. About 50 cents each...

YES they (CPVC) plugs will fit..same 1/2" NPT size except for one real important item.........HEAT

CPVC is NOT rated for the temperatures that can be reached in an RV water heater.
CPVC temp rated only up to 200*F MAX------

Nylon temp rated up over 400*F safely

Water heater T&P Relief Valves OPEN at 210*F
That is one reason Atwood uses the NYLON plug......temp rating

If the heater is operating properly, a CPVC plug will last indefinitely. Or at least plenty long enough to order a nylon replacement. And they're much easier to find when you need one right now... :W

IF....IF....IF :S

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:

katysdad wrote:
Don't put anything but a nylon plug in a Atwood water heater. Dissimilar metals will freeze in the aluminum tank fitting.

CPVC plugs from the hardware store work well too. About 50 cents each...

YES they (CPVC) plugs will fit..same 1/2" NPT size except for one real important item.........HEAT

CPVC is NOT rated for the temperatures that can be reached in an RV water heater.
CPVC temp rated only up to 200*F MAX------

Nylon temp rated up over 400*F safely

Water heater T&P Relief Valves OPEN at 210*F
That is one reason Atwood uses the NYLON plug......temp rating

If the heater is operating properly, a CPVC plug will last indefinitely. Or at least plenty long enough to order a nylon replacement. And they're much easier to find when you need one right now... :W

Hmmmmmm.... It's a boiler drain valve!

Old-Biscuit wrote:

paulcardoza wrote:
Has anyone tried this?

Pressure rated only for 125 psi CWP (Cold Working Pressure).......too low of psi rating for safe use in Hot water environment

T&P Relief Valve OPENS at 150 PSI (210*F)

I just simply take out the plastic plug, open the relief valve and let it rip, take the wand and put inside and rinse it out and put the plug back in. Your making it more of a chore then it really is.

paulcardoza wrote:
Has anyone tried this?

Pressure rated only for 125 psi CWP (Cold Working Pressure).......too low of psi rating for safe use in Hot water environment

T&P Relief Valve OPENS at 150 PSI (210*F)

Why does everyone dislike the plastic plug ?
I have had two trailers with them and never have had a problem.
I have had each of the trailers for seven years and each year the water heater tank gets drained several times.

For those of you who don't do much plumbing, if you overtighten either the plastic or the replacement shutoff metal one you are going to be sadly disappointed when the threads start to leak.
Keep in mind that the threads are tapered, and the tighter you try to tighten them, the worse the situation will be.

Jack L

I tried but found that the flow of draining water was way too slow and went back to the Teflon plug. You can get a pack of two for a few dollars to keep on hand should you put the plug in cocked and strip the threads.

Has anyone tried this?

poppin_fresh wrote:
I have used a water filter with my camper since new, so I'm really wondering just how much sediment and crud I could have in my HW tank that would require flushing?

I don't necessarily mind pulling the plug, but what I hate is all that water splashing into the compartment. It wouldn't take much of a leak in the corners where the hinge/sealant is, to allow a lot of water behind the wall.

When water is heated minerals plate out so unless your water source is lacking minerals your WH tank needs an occasional draining/flushing

IF the corners of your rolled pan leak then rain would get in also.