2" riser ball?

Here's you solution lots of adjustments.

With the little camper pictured in your sig, it doesn't really matter.
You're not overweight or overloaded by a long shot (unless you have a BUNCH of heavy stuff in the nose of the trailer).
Level or close to it is preferred, but only really matters if you have a tandem or triple axle on torsion suspension. Torsion suspension doesn't equalize between axles like a leaf spring setup therefore in order to get equal load on the axles you have to be level.

Personally I'd get a little higher hitch to level it out just for appearances sake and maybe easier to level up when camping.
If you tow multiple things, some sort of adjsutable height hitch is nice so you can adjust accordingly.

Thanks guys. A buddy said I can borrow his adjustable stinger to experiment.

Towing slightly nose down does NOT transfer an appreciable amount of weight.

The angle required to get any appreciable weight transfer is so extreme, that it is impossible to achieve with a typical trailer.

The reason you want to tow level is to equalize the load on the trailer's axles.

you can get a ball with a 2" rise with a capacity of 25000 lbs

I think this was answered, but I'll ask it a different way. Does towing nose down (even an inch or two) transfer more weight to the tongue? I have a single axle trailer. If so, that's reason enough since I'm using a half ton with pitifull payload.

I have two stingers, but would need another to accomplish this if I don't use a ball with a riser. It's a little more complicated in that I need a stinger with the tab off to the side for the friction sway control bar. Of course, I could take any stinger and have the tab welded onto it.

Will look for the 1" shank. Thanks for all the other tips.

i have a fleet of "stingers" , each with a ball mounted on them .
the first i bought for my 2 inch receiver hitch for my first new car a 1972 suburban C20 with a big block 402 .
some stingers have a 2 inch rise and more have a 2 inch drop .
what i recall is that the various trailer balls can be purchased with a 1 inch diameter bolt , 3 /4" , or 1 /2".
the last ones i bought had the 1 inch bolt shank .
with a 2 inch riser type ball i would probably hold out for the 1 inch bolt shank .
or raise the stinger height itself .
i tow my 21T trailer slightly nose down.
i use a duramax with a 9200 gvw and my trailer is 900 # tongue weight and the trailer axles are about 5300 # , with a 7240# trailer axle gvw .
i do this because we boondock camp and i want more ground clearance at the back of the trailer .
we do ford some "vados" ( dips ) and this slight forward tip does not transfer too much weight to the front trailer axle.
we weigh our rig frequently because it is free at ODOT public scales after hours .

It is ALWAYS a good idea to tow pretty close to level for ALL of the reasons you mentioned above. Doesn't replace a WD system however for when you tongue weight demands it. MOST smaller tow vehicles will be limited to around 500 lb. tongue weight when NOT using a WD hitch. Really has nothing to do with sag it's a weight rating issue.

What type of hitch are your now using?

Hi rise tow balls have there place, but we need to know more about what it is you have. You may be able to adjust for it in another method.

Also heads up on hi rise tow balls, many have reduced pull ratings because of the length. That said you can buy high strength ones too. Point is look for the stamp of rating in the head of the ball. It has to be rated for full GVWR of your camper

Hope this helps

John

I'm towing with the 2" receiver. My stinger is a 2" drop, and it's already flipped. I also use a friction sway control. No weight distribution.

Probably 3,700-4000 loaded.

Don't think it's a tongue weight issue. The truck doesn't sag more than an inch.