2016 Tacoma

The owners manual states: Can not be towing, period. I was considering getting me a Tacoma until I found out they can not be towed. Neither manual or automatic.

Same here a few years ago. Tacoma was top of the list till I looked at the owner manual. Frontier 2WD and 4X4 both towable with manual transmission. Bought 2WD 4 cylinder 5 speed manual. Nice truck with good ride but wide turn radius.

This is from the 2015 owners manual online, I looked it up for another poster previously. Doubt anything has changed for 2016, but you can find the owners manual online.

2015 Owners manual Page 233

2-5. Driving information Dinghy towing
Your vehicle is not designed to be dinghy towed (with 4 wheels on the ground) behind a motor home.

NOTICE To avoid serious damage to your vehicle Do not tow your vehicle with four wheels on the ground.

Any rear wheel drive vehicle can be towed 4-down.

-Disconnect the rear driveshaft from the axle yoke and tie it up with bailing wire.
-Disconnect the battery and put the key in the 'run' position, which keeps the steering wheel unlocked and keeps from running down the battery.
-Use a set of magnetic towing lights.

I also bought a Frontier with the 6 cylinder and 6 speed manual. Just put in neutral and one click on the key to unlock the wheel and away you go. As j-d stated it does have a wide turning radius but never got into trouble.

I have read of one owner that has been towing a 2016. There are some problems. Of course he has the driveshaft disconnect. Who in their right mind would manually disconnect the driveshaft and tie it up every time you towed??? The new Tacoma does not have a manual transmission unless you buy the base model. Apparently it has push button start. He was unable to keep the steering wheel unlocked. He ground a pin in the column that disabled the lock. Bad idea! I will have to go to Toyota dealer and look at the steering wheel locking system. It seems to be complicated.

Moisheh

"Who in their right mind..."
I did. I had a Dastun diesel pickup, 4X2, manual transmission, that could not be towed. So, because I did not have the several hundred dollars for a driveshaft disconnect, I got under it and disconnected the driveshaft every time I connected it to the motorhome.
That few minutes of "inconvenience" now and then saved me nearly a thousand dollars! At the time, it was quite worth it in my opinion.
Why is removing the steering lock pin a "Bad idea"? Many people do it, either by cutting it off or simply removing it. Many (if not most) new vehicles do not have a steering wheel lock, so apparently "they" have discovered that it really isn't all that necessary. When "they" removed the "OFF, Not Locked" position from the ignition switch, removing the pin seems to be the logical answer to the steering lock problems!

The steering lock doesn't stop the theives, they just break it anyways and drive off.

I'm also one who disconnects the driveshaft. Not a big deal, only takes a ratchet and socket and a few minutes.

Electronics are cheap and don't require skilled assembly to install. The vehicle manufacturers consider a steering lock to be superfluous now that they have chipped "smart" keys and other electronic deterrents. I wouldn't count on a steering lock anyway, so if one was keeping me from flat towing, I'd remove or disable it.

Dropping the driveshaft, at least to me, has to meet three considerations in addition to time and dirt involved:

1. The use: Is the towed vehicle going to be used at every daily stop on a long trip?

2. The vehicle: Can I get under it to accomplish this?

3. Me: Do I have the flexibility, the range of motion, the vision, to do it?

We had an OP who bought a Tacoma as toad for his DP. His logic was that Tacoma was what he wanted to drive, and driveshaft disconnect allowed him to have the truck he wanted and tow it too. It wasn't long before he hated it! Actually traded the truck to get something he wouldn't have to mess with.

Driveshaft Disconnects are as much an Love/Hate device as anything I've seen in RVing. If I wanted to use one, I'd get a used driveshaft. Have it re-conditioned by a professional shop that was installing my disconnect device. I'd probably install the assembly myself, since angles and routing of the control cable seem to cause a lot of the complaints. Keep the OEM shaft. Be able to swap back to sell the truck, or use the truck while the disconnect was being repaired.

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
The steering lock doesn't stop the theives, they just break it anyways and drive off.

That's true, the steering lock doesn't stop a thief. Today they have to overcome technology. If the right chip isn't in proximity to the car, it's not going to start. I imagine smart thieves maybe can "clone" a proximity key to steal a car?