2018 GMC Canyon brakes sticking after ready brake install

OLYLEN wrote:
How did you press the brake to the floor? On any brakes I know of you can only push a 1/2" or so NEW and have full braking, no more pedal give. Sounds like the master cylinder has a problem.

LEN

I guess I mis-stated that. I meant that pressed it close to the floor in order to mark the spot to drill. It really does seem to travel farther than it should.......

Took it to the dealer today. They checked it out and couldn't find anything wrong. It didn't set off any codes and they just told me to keep an eye on it.

I did pull the wheels off last night to inspect things and found that a metal piece on the front right rotor had jumped out of position. It is a piece that sits on top of the pads and kind of spreads the inner and outer pads apart, I guess. Anyway I put that back into position. I'm not sure if that was the problem and why that would cause both sides to brake?

For now, I guess I'll chalk it up to a coincidence that it happened a couple days after the test run of towing it. I've double checked everything on the towing component installation and can't see anything wrong. One thing I didn't do when towing is add a bungee cord from the seat to the pedal; I've now added that.

I guess I'm just going to be extra catious for a while and see how it goes.

How did you press the brake to the floor? On any brakes I know of you can only push a 1/2" or so NEW and have full braking, no more pedal give. Sounds like the master cylinder has a problem.

LEN

I just towed my Colorado over 500 miles. First trip and no problems. I use the rvi2. Keep us informed.

What I said came from my experience. Self inflicted pain is the worse.

Seriously, disconnect the cable from the brake pedal and drive it around before you take to the dealer. It cost me $50 when I brought in for them to tell me it was the install of the RB. I'm sure he knew I did the install when he told me to take it back to who did the install. But I also have been to the same dealer for 18 years and the service writer and I will sit and BS as time allows.

Have you tried to contact RB? I never have but have heard others say they are good to work with. Good Luck!

I was not towing it when the brakes locked up. I was driving the GMC Canyon home from work when it happened. It was the day after I had towed.

I think I had a couple inches of slack. I just did a short test run on Sunday (maybe 6 miles or so). The led indicator light seemed to work fine, the Canyon towed well and everything seemed good. I use a 6" riser to make the rv and canyon level within 2" of each other.

Yes I do need to disconnect the battery (and I did) before towing. I have the towing instructions printed out and followed them exactly. It involves placing the transfer case in neutral, placing tranny in park, and leaving the key in accessory mode so the steering wheel doesn't lock.

I am worried about the dealer immediately claiming it is the ready brake, and not look much farther. But I do have an appointment on Thursday to have them take a look.

You say you were going 60 and the brakes engaged. Were you towing it then?

Do you have enough slack it the brake cable between the surge lever and the toad? Suppose to be able to lift the cable about 2". Were you on levelers when you hooked up the toad? Try hooking up road ready.

Drive it around if you can. Try lifting up the pedal with your left foot and see if that causes the brakes to release.

Disconnect the cable from the brake pedal and try that. Drive the Canyon around and see if that makes a difference. The first thing the dealer is going to say without checking anything is that it is the Ready Brake.

Do you have to disconnect the battery before towing? What are the towing four down instructions in your owners manual?

magicbus wrote:
Almost sounds like there is a check valve in the system preventing the fluid from returning when the engine isn't running. Maybe part of the ABS :?

Dave

It is happening when the truck is running. I was going 60 mph when all of a sudden the brakes were engaging. After it sat for a while the calipers released slightly.

I'll see if I can get in to the dealer to have them check it out. I hate taking anything to the dealer, but maybe it's something that the warranty will cover? We've only had the truck for 4 months and it has about 6,000 miles on it now.

I double checked the cable route and it seems fine. The cable is not pulling down on the brakes at all, so that checks out.

I'm thinking maybe it somehow got air in the system?

During the cable install, I pressed the pedal to the floor in order to mark the spot for drilling the hole through the firewall. I did that and got the hole drilled and then it sat for a week before I finished up routing the cable and getting it the install finished up.

I'm just wondering if something got stuck or air somehow worked itself in because of pressing the pedal to the floor with the engine off and letting it sit for a week?

Almost sounds like there is a check valve in the system preventing the fluid from returning when the engine isn't running. Maybe part of the ABS :?

Dave

No, I didn't install the break away yet. The pedal doesn't seem like it is being pulled down at all; the brake lights aren't on but the calipers are squeezing against the rotors slightly.

Thanks for the ideas.