Forum Discussion
Slowmover
Oct 28, 2018Explorer
A search will reveal contributor Ron Gratz “Three Pass Scale Method” from 2010. I’ve used it here with others, and over on Airforums. Although not called that originally, it’s a set of reference numbers to analyze basics. A formula. Find it and make a copy.
All three passes are made the same day. Max fuel. Full propane & fresh water. That’s the minimum for TARE.
A camping load is that plus whatever else. All passengers on all three passes.
The short version is that the TV Steer Axle needs to wheigh the same as when solo or towing. That’s the starting point. More weight, or less may be best.
You want to waste time, try Fords recommendations on hitch setting. GIGO.
This also allow one to dial in the TV tire pressure. That’s according to Load. Too high and steering & braking are worse. TT tires are always to sidewall max.
A towing rig has three components:
1). Tow vehicle
2). Trailer
3). Hitch rigging
It’s equal importance for all three.
A properly set hitch is what preserves steering & braking control. ITS A STEERING COMPONENT.
A 1,200-lb hitch weight is the province of cars, SUVs and vans. How a WD hitch works is what solves that problem.
And a Hensley patent hitch is a fraction of the cost of either of the TV or TT. It’s dirt cheap for what it does. No more sway, guaranteed. Your choice of tow vehicle needs it as badly as the trailer.
As you have both the worst tow vehicle design, AND worst specific travel trailer design, “stability” is a word needs to be tattoed on you somewhere as a reminder. Either is bad with any other mate. Together, they’re a problem, just waiting.
After getting some feedback driving in different hitch settings, it’s time for weighing the TT axles separately. Ask the Cat Scale Weighmaster for help. They have specific instructions on how to do this. That’s the final hitch adjustment to work.
You also need to test brakes. The combined rig should stop slightly sooner than the pickup once the trailer is parked.
Did I see that you are passing big trucks? Nearly all of whom are at or above 65-mph early this year. That’s too fast for a pickup when solo.
A pickup is just barely okay when kept in a straight line on a sunny day with dry pavement. Far from other vehicles. Make it a point that you are NEVER surrounded by other vehicles. Ever. Cancel cruise and back off.
Put your family first. You don’t have the brakes, the steering or the stability. No RV does. (You are DEPENDENT on everyone else acting correctly. One fine morning, one or more of them won’t).
No lane changes. Maybe pass one or two others on the Interstate in 300-miles. No braking except to exit the highway. . That’s closer to the definition of what is a successful day on the road than what others will recite.
Understanding how average speed works is what matters (not set speed).
Changing one TH to another won’t help unless the replacement has fully independent suspension plus anti-lock disc brakes. Your problem isn’t TT length or weight.
Know the stability problems. And TEST.
Make the accommodations for what you have. The result you wanted. And then take it easy. It’s vacation time.
Numbers are a baseline. Not optional.
All three passes are made the same day. Max fuel. Full propane & fresh water. That’s the minimum for TARE.
A camping load is that plus whatever else. All passengers on all three passes.
The short version is that the TV Steer Axle needs to wheigh the same as when solo or towing. That’s the starting point. More weight, or less may be best.
You want to waste time, try Fords recommendations on hitch setting. GIGO.
This also allow one to dial in the TV tire pressure. That’s according to Load. Too high and steering & braking are worse. TT tires are always to sidewall max.
A towing rig has three components:
1). Tow vehicle
2). Trailer
3). Hitch rigging
It’s equal importance for all three.
A properly set hitch is what preserves steering & braking control. ITS A STEERING COMPONENT.
A 1,200-lb hitch weight is the province of cars, SUVs and vans. How a WD hitch works is what solves that problem.
And a Hensley patent hitch is a fraction of the cost of either of the TV or TT. It’s dirt cheap for what it does. No more sway, guaranteed. Your choice of tow vehicle needs it as badly as the trailer.
As you have both the worst tow vehicle design, AND worst specific travel trailer design, “stability” is a word needs to be tattoed on you somewhere as a reminder. Either is bad with any other mate. Together, they’re a problem, just waiting.
After getting some feedback driving in different hitch settings, it’s time for weighing the TT axles separately. Ask the Cat Scale Weighmaster for help. They have specific instructions on how to do this. That’s the final hitch adjustment to work.
You also need to test brakes. The combined rig should stop slightly sooner than the pickup once the trailer is parked.
Did I see that you are passing big trucks? Nearly all of whom are at or above 65-mph early this year. That’s too fast for a pickup when solo.
A pickup is just barely okay when kept in a straight line on a sunny day with dry pavement. Far from other vehicles. Make it a point that you are NEVER surrounded by other vehicles. Ever. Cancel cruise and back off.
Put your family first. You don’t have the brakes, the steering or the stability. No RV does. (You are DEPENDENT on everyone else acting correctly. One fine morning, one or more of them won’t).
No lane changes. Maybe pass one or two others on the Interstate in 300-miles. No braking except to exit the highway. . That’s closer to the definition of what is a successful day on the road than what others will recite.
Understanding how average speed works is what matters (not set speed).
Changing one TH to another won’t help unless the replacement has fully independent suspension plus anti-lock disc brakes. Your problem isn’t TT length or weight.
Know the stability problems. And TEST.
Make the accommodations for what you have. The result you wanted. And then take it easy. It’s vacation time.
Numbers are a baseline. Not optional.
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