So tomorrow we are going to pay/sign for our first TT (30' KZ Connect) whoich we ordered back in September at the Hershey RV show. The dealer is a 3hr drive away and will be storing the TT until April.I received an email stating that if we wished to purchase a WD hitch it would be $575 installed.The manufacturer's paperwork states the dry hitch weight is 690 lbs.The UVW is 5880 and GVWR is 6800.How close are the TW specs usually to real world loaded weight?Am I not supposed to base the WDH and bars on the actual TW?How is the dealer, or I, supposed to know the Actual TW and select the proper WDH until I pack out the TT with all my stuff?By then I should have towed it home long before it goes into use.I see online WDH with a TW range of 700-1200 lbs.Is that something I should be looking for?

My KZ has a published tongue weight of 560lbs, it is 860 ready to travel. The hitch you mentioned is likely the correct one. If you bought the trailer from a dealer near Pottstown, be sure the bolts are tight, mine were not. Better yet, install and adjust yourself, you’ll save money and have it done right.

No, dry tongue weight are not accurate. That does not include batteries, propane, options, and of course loaded. 12-15% of the GVWR is much more accurate, in general.And yes, buy the hitch based on actual weights.PS - That trailer has a scary-low payload. I'm assuming since you posted DRY hitch weights, you're also going off brochure dry unit weight? Or the yellow sticker in the trailer?.If that's a brochure weight, that might the lowest I've ever seen in a long trailer. That's more appropriate for a tear-drop maybe. 1) "mandatory options" like the microwave, awning, and spare tire will probably bump it up to 6,200 pounds. Then add 80 pounds of propane, 120 pounds of batteries, you're already down to 300 pounds of carrying capacity. The 300 pounds is all you're allowed for water, groceries, luggage etc. Might be ok for a seasonal unit, but not for something to actually go camping in!

Forget the brochure tongue weight (dry).Use 15% of the gross weight of the trailer to be safe. Right around 1000 lbs....maybe a little less (loaded and trip ready).Also, use the trailer for a trip or two BEFORE you store it. No doubt there will be stuff that needs warranty work....probably requiring a trip back to an authorized dealer....don't wait to get the kinks ironed out.and...congrats on your new rig.

Down is absolutely right about using the TT before you store it at the dealer’s. Make a list of repairs and adjustments.

Hi,As the others have said, the dry TW from a brochure is a stock model and may not even be right for the options on your camper. Plus there is not battery or LP in the tanks.If this the camper you ordered? Maybe with some added options. https://www.kz-rv.com/products/connect-travel-trailers/C241BHK.htmlIf it is, that UVW is stated 5,120 on a 6,800 GVW. Where did the 5,880 you listed come from?Bottom line, inside the camper should be a weight sticker of what that camper weighed when it left the factory and no dealer installed options. Again less the LP in the tanks and the battery. Check on a kitchen or bathroom cabinet door. If your camper actually has a 5,880 UVW then the 690# dry TW is suspect. Something not adding up. There is 760# of GVW that increased from the brochure with no change in TW. Some number is not right. Don't know which. Odds are high with that floor plan, the loaded TW could rise 300 to 350# above whatever the unloaded TW is. You have a lot of storage space upfront. And not so much in the back, although the outside kitchen will help offset some of the front weight. You asked about 1,200# WD bars. If you're TW ended up at 1,000# and it's not hard to get there, they would be a good choice. But, does the truck you have and the truck receiver able to handle a 1,200# TW and WD bar? And is the camper frame rated to handle a 1,200# WD bar? On these lite campers, it's good to confirm with the factory the largest WD bar it can handle. If the dealer comes out with a 800# WD bar hitch, you have a problem from the get go. It is not going to work. A 1,000# WD hitch fits to 15% of the 6800 GVWR and is better choice. But it is hard to know until you load the camper and weigh it. Ask them if they will exchange WD bars if the 1,000 is not enough and can the hitch they are selling you accept 1,200# bars if it needed it? That and confirm ideally from the factory, not the dealer, the A frame handle a 1,200# WD bar. Assuming your truck can handle that too. You may find that you have to manage down to 1,000# loaded TW. That's not really bad, more of a realization that you may have to move some gear to the back to keep within the hitch rating and not go too low below 12% TW of the loaded GVW. Hope this helps and have fun with the new camper. JohnPS the price on the WD hitch sound like a basic WD hitch with a single friction bar. If it is, 29 feet long is pushing the limits of one friction bar. 2 friction bars is more recommended that long. Or better, a WD hitch with integrated anti sway control.

Acutal Tongue Wt vs. Manufacturer's Statement | Good Sam Community

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Dec 16, 2017
Down is absolutely right about using the TT before you store it at the dealer’s. Make a list of repairs and adjustments.
downtheroad
Explorer
Dec 16, 2017
Forget the brochure tongue weight (dry).
Use 15% of the gross weight of the trailer to be safe. Right around 1000 lbs....maybe a little less (loaded and trip ready).

Also, use the trailer for a trip or two BEFORE you store it. No doubt there will be stuff that needs warranty work....probably requiring a trip back to an authorized dealer....don't wait to get the kinks ironed out.

and...congrats on your new rig.
carringb
Explorer
Dec 15, 2017
No, dry tongue weight are not accurate. That does not include batteries, propane, options, and of course loaded. 12-15% of the GVWR is much more accurate, in general.

And yes, buy the hitch based on actual weights.

PS - That trailer has a scary-low payload. I'm assuming since you posted DRY hitch weights, you're also going off brochure dry unit weight? Or the yellow sticker in the trailer?.

If that's a brochure weight, that might the lowest I've ever seen in a long trailer. That's more appropriate for a tear-drop maybe. 1) "mandatory options" like the microwave, awning, and spare tire will probably bump it up to 6,200 pounds. Then add 80 pounds of propane, 120 pounds of batteries, you're already down to 300 pounds of carrying capacity. The 300 pounds is all you're allowed for water, groceries, luggage etc. Might be ok for a seasonal unit, but not for something to actually go camping in!
Lynnmor
Explorer
Dec 15, 2017
My KZ has a published tongue weight of 560lbs, it is 860 ready to travel. The hitch you mentioned is likely the correct one. If you bought the trailer from a dealer near Pottstown, be sure the bolts are tight, mine were not. Better yet, install and adjust yourself, you’ll save money and have it done right.

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