Adjusting the Roadmaster Invisibrake
I recently installed a Roadmaster Invisibrake that works quite well on my 2014 Honda CRV. The only problem is that I was unable to tell how hard the CRV was braking due to the much greater weight of the motorhome. The CRV brake applies to a preset level when the motorhome brake is activated, essentially putting 12 volts on both turn signal leads that also function as brake lights. The Invisibrake brake applies for 15 seconds, or until the brake is released in the motorhome. Either turn signal by itself will not activate the Invisibrake.
To test the braking without the motorhome, I made up a cable that plugs into the towing connector on the front of the CRV that I run through the passenger’s window. I connect both turn signal leads through a switch wthat gets 12 volts from the accessory plug. I then take the car out on a nearby seldom travelled road, press the switch applying voltage to both turn signal leads, thus activating the braking. I then adjust the brake setting until I get the amount of braking I want for the CRV. This does not require any rewiring of the CRV, but only a temporary cable from the connector to my switchbox on the seat that’s only required while making the adjustment.
I also wired a single pole a switch across the fuse holder for the navagational devices to eliminate 5 amps of draw while the ignition switch is in the ACC position. I used a test adaptor that bridges the fuse clip so no tampering with the vehicle wiring was required. I hid the switch under the dash.
Finally, I provided a 12 volt charge lead from the motorhome to the CRV to overcome minor current drain when leaving the ignition switch in ACC position, and to replace power lost to the brake system and the CRV brake lights that activate when the brake pedal is depressed by the Invisibrake.
There was an earlier discussion about the license plate light so I thought about that since I believe in CA, the plate must be lighted. to solve that I simply turn on the parking lights, which lights the plate maintaining the CRV battery with the aforementioned 12 volt power from the motorhome.
To test the braking without the motorhome, I made up a cable that plugs into the towing connector on the front of the CRV that I run through the passenger’s window. I connect both turn signal leads through a switch wthat gets 12 volts from the accessory plug. I then take the car out on a nearby seldom travelled road, press the switch applying voltage to both turn signal leads, thus activating the braking. I then adjust the brake setting until I get the amount of braking I want for the CRV. This does not require any rewiring of the CRV, but only a temporary cable from the connector to my switchbox on the seat that’s only required while making the adjustment.
I also wired a single pole a switch across the fuse holder for the navagational devices to eliminate 5 amps of draw while the ignition switch is in the ACC position. I used a test adaptor that bridges the fuse clip so no tampering with the vehicle wiring was required. I hid the switch under the dash.
Finally, I provided a 12 volt charge lead from the motorhome to the CRV to overcome minor current drain when leaving the ignition switch in ACC position, and to replace power lost to the brake system and the CRV brake lights that activate when the brake pedal is depressed by the Invisibrake.
There was an earlier discussion about the license plate light so I thought about that since I believe in CA, the plate must be lighted. to solve that I simply turn on the parking lights, which lights the plate maintaining the CRV battery with the aforementioned 12 volt power from the motorhome.
