To All.
Thanks for the nice comments. I'm glad this helped some folks. That was the intent. I have learned so many things in such a short time here on RV Net that every now and then we need to give back. There are many ways to do a brake job, this was how I learned so figured would see if I could improve the task with feed back from others.
Now to some specific questions:
GoldHEMI wrote:
Thanks for the tips. I'm getting ready to adjust my brakes and I'm hoping I don't have to remove the wheel and drum. Now I know what the brake adjustment tool should look like.
The Dexter book says underslung axles requires a special brake adjusting tool but never showed what it looked like....
What I made is a piece of 1/4" round stock, cut to length of your choice, forge (beat with hammer) the end to give you that blade shape. The round tip comes along for the ride. Then bend to suit your needs.
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Fulltimers wrote:
Nice job. The only thing I hate doing is the brake adjustment. The rest is kinda fun. One note though, the Axle nut does have a torque spec. Too tight or too lose can be bad news.
I fully agree to tight and too loose is bad news. To much heat one way or the other. We actually preload Timken's with indicators on certain machines requiring high precision and no end play at work.
In this case I did not come up with this tightening method, Dexter did. I may not have used the right words, and may need to change what I wrote. Right out of the Dexter manual,
See page 51 of the Dexter manual.Basically they are using the 50 ft. lb # to seat the bearings and take out all the play. Then you back off the torque while not rotating the drum, then bring the nut back up finger tight. This in theory is close to no preload or slope on the Timkens. If the words I used did not translate this, sorry. I meant it to be.
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Retiredblade wrote:
JBarca, did you invent that seal remover? That is a good idea. Only question I have, why be so careful to remove the seals when you are replacing them with new ones?
No I can't take credit for inventing that puller. I had the one in the pic for a long time. End up acquiring it for doing some work back when I was like 16. Which at this point, let's just say was a while ago... It is a inside/outside slide hammer puller. You can flip the jaws around and the cone on the bottom locks them. Mine is made by Proto. Searched them on the web and they still make it, just slightly updated.
Proto Gear Puller SetNow why to be so careful when removing to replace. The ID of the seal is still messed up using the puller. However I did not scratch up the hub bore that the seal is pressed in. If you do not have a puller the options are sort of a screw drive with a hammer and dig and pry. Yeh it works, but if you have the puller, it is easier.
And oh yeh, I see your sig pic every now and then. LOL... Where in the world did you find that thing???? The pic does not seem to match the 94 Bounder in your sig. The pic is more like a 48 or 52 Dodge straight truck with a "structure" on it....
Thanks to all for responding. More welcome too.
Thanks
John
