Caddywhompus wrote:
After you pull the outer nut, washer and bearing, but before you remove the drum. Simply thread ONLY the nut back on to the spindle a few turns. As you slide the drum off, hook the inside edge of the seal against the back of the nut and give the drum a sharp pull. The grease seal (and usually the inner bearing) will be left dangling on the spindle behind the nut.
I know it sounds like it shouldn't work, and that it might even damage a bearing or race in the process, but it doesn't. Like I said, most of the time the grease seal comes out so gently it can be cleaned and reused. I've been doing my bearings this way for about 15 years. Never replaced a wheelbearing yet. And the only grease seals I've ever replaced were due to age, not damage from removal. That includes not only the trailers, but also the FWD vehicles I had with rear drum brakes.
-Jimmy
H'mm Jimmy OK what you are saying is the inner bearing cone stops up against the nut and then the bearing acts against the seal and the brake drum is the slide hammer. Gently ratchet the drum back and forth and tap out the seal. Like the slide hammer puller. I could see this working and obviously it does.
The bearing should be able to take it. The seal, well if the rubber is hard, it needs to go anyway. Whether or not to reuse the seal over, well that is a personal call. There is 2 camps on this. Those that clean and inspect and reuse, and those that pitch it regardless. Both work.
I must admit this is cheaper than the $487 Proto puller set.... But then again I have had mine for the last 30 years and it was used when I got it. Only cost me like $20 in a barter trade agreement. Good tools taken care of, last.
Thanks
John
