My trailer has the arctic package which insulates the belly. The only exposed water lines are the two drains, and the tank drain. I have not winterized yet as I need to take one more trip to check out the hitch and some changes made to my truck to see if they corrected a handling issue. I need to do it with a full FWT, so have not drained anything and we are supposed to get a day or two over the weekend of below freezing temps overnight. If I put pipe insulation on the three exposed pipes, and run the heater on the lowest setting, or have an electric heater to keep it at least 50* inside, will that be enough to prevent any issues> I doubt it will stay cold enough to cause any ice, but better safe than sorry. Hopefully the following weekend will be dry so I can take the test drive and then do the winterizing, and get it prepped to store. This year went by too fast, and we did not get as many trips in as I would like. :( Mainly due to having to replace my truck earlier in the year and then have handling issues.

Below freezing overnight is not typically a huge deal but yes that little exposed drain valve may freeze. I doubt it will break though as many including myself have camped in winter with water and it's not been an issue.

It won't be an issue, until it is; then it's too late. Your fresh water tank won't be the issue, to much mass. The problem is the pencil lead sized water line fittings that have no mass. So do you feel lucky?

Hoping that Sunday the rain is done and the roads are dry, then I can take that trip and drain everything later. The pipe foam should protect everything that is currently exposed, I hope. Getting down to 30 overnight on Saturday. I know the tank will be OK, it takes a lot of cold to freeze 40 gallons of water.

It really depends on the make of the trailer. Some "Arctic Packages" aren't really much to speak of. We had the "Artic Package" on our Big Sky and it really amounted to no more than a little extra insulation and a furnace hose run to the basement. It certainly wouldn't keep anything from freezing if it got very cold.

I have used the foam pipe insulation on my 3 drain pipes, with good results. I would recommend using the furnace, rather than electric heat, due to moving air/heat into the belly as designed.Tip: I used larger than needed rubber/foam pipe insulation, and wrapped it to fit with electrical tape.Jerry

Arctic package and water lines | Good Sam Community

12 Replies

Acdii
Explorer
Oct 26, 2017
That's so true. The belly on my Coleman appears to be all glued up with expanding foam, so it would be a mess to remove it.
memtb
Explorer
Oct 26, 2017
Acdii wrote:
Well, not on this trailer as it gets parked during the winter in my barn, but in the future when we plan to live in it, those are great suggestions. The forecast changed a bit, only getting down to 31 Saturday night, and only a 20% chance of rain, so hopefully I can get the road test done Saturday and drain the lines before it gets too cold. We are getting frost advisories, but frost doesn't concern me as much as dropping to the mid 20's did, and those are no longer in the forecast, so a little breathing room.

“Not on this trailer”! So, if you get a different unit in a few years, consider a unit that is already properly designed ( not just manufacturing hype) for cold weather use. Then you won’t have to do the work. It’s far easier for them to do all the work during manufacturing, than you “after the fact”!
Acdii
Explorer
Oct 25, 2017
Well, not on this trailer as it gets parked during the winter in my barn, but in the future when we plan to live in it, those are great suggestions. The forecast changed a bit, only getting down to 31 Saturday night, and only a 20% chance of rain, so hopefully I can get the road test done Saturday and drain the lines before it gets too cold. We are getting frost advisories, but frost doesn't concern me as much as dropping to the mid 20's did, and those are no longer in the forecast, so a little breathing room.
memtb
Explorer
Oct 25, 2017
Acdii, You’ve received much good and accurate advice, but I’ll throw this out there as well. Though it won’t help you out right now!!!You will likely experience these conditions (or colder) if you continue to rv. If you plan on keeping the rv for a few years ( to justify the work), here’s something to consider. “Dropping” the underbelly will be required. Put electric heat trace (110 volt) and foam tube insulate the water lines down to and including the valves, also tank drain lines and valves. Run the wiring to a “convenient “ location for a switch or an electrical outlet. While your there, you could put “heat pads” (12 volt) on the tank bottoms. This could provide you with much “piece of mind” in your life as an rv’er. It’s a bit of labor....you just have to convince yourself that “it’s a labor of love”! ;)
Acdii
Explorer
Oct 25, 2017
Only places around by me have exchanges for the tanks, none of the places fill anymore. There is one place, but they charge a full fill even if its a half fill. I have a heater that will shut off at 50*, which is what I plan to use.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Oct 24, 2017
Stop overthinking it. Your drains will be fine for a night at just barely freezing temps. No need to run 2 heaters...unless you're trying to turn the camper into a sauna with a bed and fridge!
And why are you trying to "purge" your propane? It doesn't go stale and you can top of a tank even if it's not empty.
Acdii
Explorer
Oct 24, 2017
MFL wrote:
I have used the foam pipe insulation on my 3 drain pipes, with good results. I would recommend using the furnace, rather than electric heat, due to moving air/heat into the belly as designed.

Tip: I used larger than needed rubber/foam pipe insulation, and wrapped it to fit with electrical tape.

Jerry

Thanks, that was what I was looking for. I just want to be proactive, as I don't expect it to get too cold, the highs each day is in the 40's, and all but the outdoor shower, and two drains are inside. Going to have the water heater on electric as well since I want that weight to be there when I test drive it. Other than some clothes, and the refer being empty, it will be the same as when we traveled earlier this year, then I can go ahead and winterize it. I have yet to empty a propane tank, so I can purge the tanks using the furnace, and start next year off with two new full tanks. I will probably run an electric in addition, just to be on the safe side.
MFL
Nomad II
Oct 24, 2017
I have used the foam pipe insulation on my 3 drain pipes, with good results. I would recommend using the furnace, rather than electric heat, due to moving air/heat into the belly as designed.

Tip: I used larger than needed rubber/foam pipe insulation, and wrapped it to fit with electrical tape.

Jerry
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Oct 24, 2017
It really depends on the make of the trailer. Some "Arctic Packages" aren't really much to speak of. We had the "Artic Package" on our Big Sky and it really amounted to no more than a little extra insulation and a furnace hose run to the basement. It certainly wouldn't keep anything from freezing if it got very cold.
Acdii
Explorer
Oct 24, 2017
Hoping that Sunday the rain is done and the roads are dry, then I can take that trip and drain everything later. The pipe foam should protect everything that is currently exposed, I hope. Getting down to 30 overnight on Saturday. I know the tank will be OK, it takes a lot of cold to freeze 40 gallons of water.