Arctic package black tank valve not shutting

Well after working on it for an hour today I found what I believe to be a few problems. The rod part of the cable I believe is bent causing binding as it passes through the initial part where the handle is. I did. manage to get the valve to close once and afterwards it is not closing again and is super hard to actuate. I tried putting some dry lube into the thing but it did not help. I was able to lower some of the plastic but the propane line runs below it. I see the bottom of the valve and it has a bunch of spray foam holing things in place so I just need to remove that and then I believe I can get to the valve enough to remove it.

I don’t believe that anyone mentioned another possibility, manufacturing debris such as the cutouts for the tank, can be left inside and find their way to the valve. You will know when the valve is removed.

Today it is not raining hard so I am going to try and open the plastic up under the trailer and see if I can get a look at the valve. Good to know what others have been through and what people like. I'll definitely check the length of the cable and hopefully it will be obvious what is holding things up.

some rigs the installer was too lazy to cut the cable down. Long cables cause tension.need them as short as possible.

I've had the three different types of valves(t handle, cable and electric) and much prefer the electrically operated ones. I don't remember the brand name but the ones I have have metal gears and have been operating flawlessly for 5 years now and I love em. With that said, I can access them easily and lube the blades annually. They're about $200 each but totally worth it to me.

lamopar wrote:
... So have any of you had good luck with a cable type system over time?

We were full-time in our previous fifth wheel for 4-1/2 years. I drained the gray tanks every 2 - 3 days and the black tank once a week. Never had any issues with the valve cables (they are a rod on either end with a flexible cable in between). Only a little over 10 months in our new rig, but so far no issues.

Rob

Most cable systems on bikes only pull the device, a spring returns things to the original position. The dump valves depend on the stiff cable to push the blade shut, ever try pushing a rope? No lube is recommended. My thought is that there are many installations where the cable is bent too much, the specifications are in the installation manual. To add to the problem, "stuff" can flow into the area where the blade is pulled when the valve is anywhere but completely closed, IMO that is a design defect.

I have replaced valves on our previous toy hauler and yes it is very easy. I am just concerned with a cable system. This morning when looking up information on the net I found several people who stated they replaced the valve and cable and still had problems with the valve not closing. I know from my previous unit the valve had to have some good pressure to close completely. I guess that is my thought process with the electric motor version vs a cable.

We have never left the valve open. We don't camp for very long periods so getting the tank full has not been a problem.

So have any of you had good luck with a cable type system over time? I know on bikes, dirt bikes, ATVs the cables fail unless maintained with lube and still don't last long. Just wondering if this is the same case with RVs or since it is somewhat sealed not a problem? By the way, I really appreciate the feedback and information.

Second Chance wrote:

lamopar wrote:
Thanks. That lines up with what I thought. I see the propane pipe is below the plastic sheet so this will be a good challenge. I think I will replace these valves with electric units once I can get access to them. We camp at the ski resort in freezing weather so I need the valve to shut every time.

Replacing the manual valve with an electric one won't make it any more reliable - probably even less so (more parts and a motor to fail).

Rob

Agreed, you add complexity and more parts that can fail.

I would look at an easily removable panel if you are worried about it failing again. If you can get at it, it's really not a big job to pull it apart and either clean up or replace the valve. Your bigger issue is if you can't get it open because now you have a full tank and when you go to pull it apart all that waste is going to come gushing out.

They are fairly reliable if you use them regularly. Don't leave the valve in the open position except when dumping. Otherwise, crud can get into the slots the valve fits into and cause it not to seal properly.

I guess it depends on what the problem is. If it is in the cabling an electric valve might work better. If it is the valve itself replacing it with electric or another manual or cleaning up the existing might or might not solve the problem.