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GaryS1953's avatar
GaryS1953
Explorer
Apr 11, 2017

Atwood Furnace AND Fridge work intermittant

Hello All - The last couple of seasons we've had intermittent furnace issues. Atwood 8500 series iii. After non-use for a period of time (weeks to months) furnace goes through normal lighting procedure and blows warm air. After achieving proper temp furnace shuts down. On the next cycle the fan blows but there is no ignition, and I don't hear sparking. I opened the exterior panel and did clean out and vacuum out various insect debris, inspected and checked for loose contacts and found none. Then I removed and bypassed the sail switch. That didn't solve the problem, though I have a new sail switch on order anyway since I have it out and it's old. Oh, also, I replaced the propane regulator thinking maybe it was a gas flow problem, and we had occasionally smelled propane when using the furnace. That didn't solve the problem.

Now a new wrinkle. We had always before run our fridge on AC shore power. I had tested it once or twice on propane, but never long term as I didn't have adequate batteries. Now we have installed 2 6 volt GC2's in series, along with 320 watts solar in preparation for some longer term dry camping. With that setup providing plenty of DC power I decided to go ahead and run my fridge longer term on propane to test it out. At first it seemed fine, getting very cold in the first 12 hours of operation. The next day, however, I check it after work and find the check light is on, and fridge is warm. So I go ahead and turn it off and back on, and again it seems normal. This morning I go out and check before work, and the first thing I notice is a light smell of propane, and the fridge check light is on.

My question, could these two situations be related to some singular component that I could replace, or do you think it's time to take it to the RV dealer? Any help / ideas appreciated.
  • Yes. The 12 volt supply line probably has a bad connection somewhere.

    Before tugging and pulling on things you need to get a couple of voltage measurements. Start at the back of the fridge first because access is usually easy. Write the measurements down. Turn the heater on and measure again. If the voltage is going real low you have a bad connection.

    I assume you have actually measured voltage right on the battery first.

    Once you have established it is a low voltage issue, which is has to be. Then visually check your wires at the battery area. A loose or dirty connection can cause all kinds of misery. Follow the negative leads to where they go and see if there is some rust issues. Clean them until they are shiny.

    Twelve volts has very little push and will not go through bad connections.
  • YC 1 - Hmm, there might be a voltage problem, but remember up until just this last week we've ALWAYS been on shore power, and yet we had the furnace problem for the last 2 seasons. Now we have 2 Duracell GC2s in series. My DCM meter (poor mans Trimetric) this morning showed 12.75 volts. I DO also have a portable digital volt meter, but I'm not well versed on it, so haven't checked voltage to any particular parts of either the furnace OR the fridge. All I've done with it is check the batteries directly to confirm the DCM was correct. Any advice as to how to set the DVM to check voltage on the various items? I have this DVM http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digital-multimeter-37772.html

    Thank you for your help.
  • Consider cleaning the electrical contacts - doesn't cost anything and might resolve the issue.
  • ksg5000 wrote:
    Consider cleaning the electrical contacts - doesn't cost anything and might resolve the issue.


    OK, I'll do that. Things looked pretty clean, and the clips I took off the sale switch were extremely tight, but I did manage to get them off and they looked good. Will try to go through them all tonight.

    Thanks!
  • Gary, you can get tricked and your question is a valid one.

    Here is what can happen. The converter using shoreline brings the voltage up over the 12.7 etc at your batteries when charged. So you probably have 13.5 or a bit more on shorline. This couple of extra volts may be all that is needed for things to work. Once you disconnect, the batteries even at full charge may not be enough to overcome a bad connection along the line. Losing only a couple of volts can cause the issuse.

    Taking measurements and WRITING them down is critical. Do not rely on your memory.

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