Bearing running hot
I am towing my tamdem 21' travel trailer. It is old, 1975. 2 days into my 9 day journey across Canada I have a persistent warm bearing issue. The first day, I did it by feel, and one bearing, th...
Forum Discussion
As midnightsadie said, your axle is at risk, as others said....
1. Jack that wheel up and spin, check for over adjusted brake shoe
2. wiggle to check for loose bearing
3. Readjust axle nut to insure not too tight
47 c or 116 degrees doesn't seem bad at all but why the difference compared to the others? I would think that the little difference is attributable to 1. through 3. If not go on to number 4.
4. Disassemble and visual inspection of bearing surfaces. Bearings need to be looked at closely. They will have a swirl or honed like look when new. As they wear they will look smooth with no swirl then they will progress to having a mottled or gravel like look and in last stages they will be deeply pitted and galled looking.
The roller itself will look perfectly smooth. Where people never look when inspecting a bearing is the inner race back behind the caged rollers. They need to be clean and dried and look down in between the rollers at all of the inner surface. I have seen bearings that appear to be ok have bad areas on the inner race. People look at the rollers but dont look beyond them as they would look at the cup side.
If you get to the point of pulling it apart make note of bear and seal numbers so you can carry spares or find the whole hub and carry it.
Under Murphys law that ensures that you will never need it.
1. Jack that wheel up and spin, check for over adjusted brake shoe
2. wiggle to check for loose bearing
3. Readjust axle nut to insure not too tight
47 c or 116 degrees doesn't seem bad at all but why the difference compared to the others? I would think that the little difference is attributable to 1. through 3. If not go on to number 4.
4. Disassemble and visual inspection of bearing surfaces. Bearings need to be looked at closely. They will have a swirl or honed like look when new. As they wear they will look smooth with no swirl then they will progress to having a mottled or gravel like look and in last stages they will be deeply pitted and galled looking.
The roller itself will look perfectly smooth. Where people never look when inspecting a bearing is the inner race back behind the caged rollers. They need to be clean and dried and look down in between the rollers at all of the inner surface. I have seen bearings that appear to be ok have bad areas on the inner race. People look at the rollers but dont look beyond them as they would look at the cup side.
If you get to the point of pulling it apart make note of bear and seal numbers so you can carry spares or find the whole hub and carry it.
Under Murphys law that ensures that you will never need it.
