Best method for towing a car

Gwen and Bill wrote:
Hello again to all,
We appreciate the wonderful advice offered in our behalf. After reading all of the posts so far we need more information on the Acme Tow Dolly available from cartowdolly.com. Do any of you out there have any experience with this product? Or, is there another brand of tow dolly that we should look at?

I towed with one of them (Acme EZE tow dolly) before we went to 4 down towing. Great choice, IMO. If we ever go back to dolly towing, it will be with an Acme EZE dolly.

As to my experience with this dolly: We found it to be the best of all worlds, as far as dollies go.

The low profile design, and detachable ramps allowed it to store almost completely under the MH. It took up less space behind the MH than even a much more expensive collapsing unit like the Demco Kar Kaddy SS that folds up. Pretty much eliminated one of the main disadvantages to a dolly (campsite storage).

Really prefer detachable ramps like the Acme has, as otherwise, if the ramps stay in place like they do on many dollies, they can hit the bottom of the towed vehicle in some situations. Also, as indicated above, it allows the dolly to be stored in much smaller space.

Hard to describe the specifics of this, but due to the geometry of the Acme dolly and the way it is designed with small wheels, fenders and no pivot table, this dolly allows you to turn very sharp corners without it hitting the fenders of your towed vehicle and doing damage, like can happen with other units. I personally tested it in a parking lot, and was able to turn really sharp, to the point front of the towed vehicle was just about to touch back of MH, right at 90 degree angle, and it was not a problem. I'm not sure how many other dollies would allow turns that tight.

Its extremely ligthweight, too (around 400 lbs IIRC), making it pretty easy to move around by hand. Its low weight, yet high weight rating (can handle up to 5,000 lbs of vehicle), make it one of the only dollies you can get that will let you tow a heavier vehicle (4500 lbs or more) without exceeding the 5,000 lb limit many MH hitch receivers have. We towed a 4500 lb minivan with it, and once you added in the weight of the dolly, most other dollies we looked at would have put us over the 5,000 lb limit of the MH receiver.

All welded construction, LED lighting, hydraulic surge disc brakes (up until recently, none of the others even offered that), and spare tire included, all at a very reasonable price, that they will ship anywhere in the US for a reasonable fee.....IMO if you're going to dolly tow, this unit just can't be beat. Like I said before, if we ever go back to dolly towing, it will be with one of these Acme dollies.

I actually went to their facility and picked our dolly up in person. They are a small company, but great folks to work with and very helpful.

When we decided to go to 4 down towing, I put the Acme dolly on Craigs List, and it sold within a few weeks. Got a good bit of my $$ back out of it, too. There's a pretty good used market for dollies.

Anyway, hope this helps. If you have more specific questions about it, feel free to PM me. :)

Hello again to all,
We appreciate the wonderful advice offered in our behalf. After reading all of the posts so far we need more information on the Acme Tow Dolly available from cartowdolly.com. Do any of you out there have any experience with this product? Or, is there another brand of tow dolly that we should look at?

Thanks so much for all of your help!!!
Gwen and Bill

Reddog1 wrote:
willald, I forgot that many people have to drive their stuff to a shop and have everything done. I have never had to do that.

Well, even if you do it all yourself, setting up a vehicle for flat towing still can cost close to the same or more than a lower priced dolly, as originally said.

$800 for a tow bar + $400 for baseplates + $100 for tail-light wiring parts/kit + $1000 for a brake system....We're over $2k already, and thats doing all the work yourself. There are a couple dollies that can be had brand new for less than 2k.

I do agree with mowermech, there is no best way, just what YOU are comfortable with, or what YOU can afford! Each method has its advantages.

Yep, thats pretty much what almost all subjects that get discussed on here boil down to.

Will

willald, I forgot that many people have to drive their stuff to a shop and have everything done. I have never had to do that.

I do agree with mowermech, there is no best way, just what YOU are comfortable with, or what YOU can afford! Each method has its advantages.

IMO, there really IS no "best" way.
There is only what YOU are comfortable with, or what YOU can afford!
I have done all three; 4-down, dolly, and flatbed trailer.
There are advantages and disadvantages to each method.
Each of us must decide which is best for US!
At the present time, I tow the Jeep 4-down, and the PT Cruiser on a dolly.
The towbar for the Jeep cost $145, new, many years ago.
The dolly cost $700, used.
It works for me.
I had a flatbed trailer, but I sold it when I got rid of the horses, and no longer needed it to haul hay.

Reddog1 wrote:

PapPappy wrote:
... It will cost a bit more than some of the less expensive dollies. ...

How can flat towing cost more than the less expensive dollies?

LOL, easily, especially if you have to have someone else do the installation work.

You have to install base plates on the toad, thats around $400 assuming you install yourself (closer to $800 if you have someone install it). Then, you have tail light wiring for the toad. Unless you do that yourself, too, thats another $100-200.

Add on another $800 or so for the tow bar to that, and you're getting close to 2,000 (unless you do all the work yourself). And, we haven't even begun talking about a supplemental brake system. Those go anywhere from $300 for a Readybrake surge system, to $1500 for the electronic systems. And many of them require installation as well, adding a few hundred more to the equation unless you do it yourself.

Soooo, if you don't do the work yourself, it is VERY easy to sink 3-4k into setting up a toad for flat towing. Which would indeed be way more $$ than some of the less expensive dollies.

Will

PapPappy wrote:
... It will cost a bit more than some of the less expensive dollies. ...

How can flat towing cost more than the less expensive dollies?

I have flat towed my Samurai for years. And the only cost was the Tow bar. If I should add a tow brake, it would cost about $500 plus the Tow bar.

Wayne

You're correct. A 16' car hauler weighs about 1800# whereas a car dolly weighs about 500# and the car dolly puts virtually no weight on the hitch. The car dolly is easier to stow when not being used. You should use a WD hitch with the hauler. However, toad choices are restricted with a dolly. You can use the hauler for other chores whereas the dolly is a dedicated use item.

DougE wrote:
A small car hauler trailer is the best solution. You can carry any car you want to. It comes with its own brakes. You can back it up. A hitch on the toad can move the trailer easily around the campground when it's empty.

Agreed, car hauler trailer definitely has its merits, the main one being backing up is not an issue.

Aside from dealing with the trailer once at your destination, the other big problem with a car hauler trailer is the weight issues it creates. For many folks, the hitch (tongue) weight of a car hauler trailer with a decent size car on it can be much more weight than can safely be put on a MH hitch receiver. Thats not to mention how it can overload the rear axle of the MH, or cause handling issues since many MHs have such a long rear overhang.

Will

A small car hauler trailer is the best solution. You can carry any car you want to. It comes with its own brakes. You can back it up. A hitch on the toad can move the trailer easily around the campground when it's empty.