Forum Discussion
travelnutz
Sep 16, 2016Explorer II
Any electric heater really should have a "tip over shut off protection switch" feature and a separate "over heat cutoff switch" also. Tungsten or ceramic element included. Having a high and low range heat selection is very handy and very smart too. It basically eliminates drastic temp changes of local areas where the heater is located and hot and cold and drafts created issues.
Low heat selection is usually between 750 and 1000 watts and some heaters even have 3 heat wattage selections which isn't all bad. We've been using various electric heaters in our many various type RV's since 1965 and they do a fine job. With ceramic heaters, it's a must to keep the dust filter screen on the rear very clean or they become very inefficient due to restricted air flow and will even shut down as they will quickly over heat.
I always check all electric heaters purchased for actual watts consumed on all heat selections with either a Kill-A-Watt or other watt meter and write the actual watts consumed on the heater's back with a marker for each heat selection. Never yet had even one electric heater actually use even near 1500 watts on high as most are in the 1350 - 1400 watts actually consumed. Holmes, Pelonis, Vornado, etc ALL!
Therefore, they are not actually giving 5120 BTU's like the packaging says as that is what 1500 watts actually can/will produce. Also knowing the watts consumed at all heat selections basically tells you how many BTU's the heater is supplying. True electric heat output capability when heating 100% of the time for all practical purposes using 117 AC is approx 340 BTU's for each 100 watts consumed. 1500 watts = 5120 BTU's capability, 1000 watts = 3400 BTU's, 750 watts = 2550 BTU's. Just for a quick reference.
Even heat circulation is far more desirable than hot spot local heating. This is where a lower wattage setting cube heater shines more like an oil filled heater. As for fan noise? It varies greatly with different brands and even in the same brand of heaters. Fan balance etc makes so much difference as does the rubber/elastic vibration dampening feet under the heat cube. We plug in every cube fan forced electric heater at the store before we buy the heater and listen to it. Only once did a store refuse to allow us to do so and we walked away. We like very quiet running heaters but don't care for the extra room an oil filled heater needs even though they are the quietest type! Especially in our truck campers where floor space is so limited. A working smoke detector or 2 is also very important to have too! NO excuses!
Low heat selection is usually between 750 and 1000 watts and some heaters even have 3 heat wattage selections which isn't all bad. We've been using various electric heaters in our many various type RV's since 1965 and they do a fine job. With ceramic heaters, it's a must to keep the dust filter screen on the rear very clean or they become very inefficient due to restricted air flow and will even shut down as they will quickly over heat.
I always check all electric heaters purchased for actual watts consumed on all heat selections with either a Kill-A-Watt or other watt meter and write the actual watts consumed on the heater's back with a marker for each heat selection. Never yet had even one electric heater actually use even near 1500 watts on high as most are in the 1350 - 1400 watts actually consumed. Holmes, Pelonis, Vornado, etc ALL!
Therefore, they are not actually giving 5120 BTU's like the packaging says as that is what 1500 watts actually can/will produce. Also knowing the watts consumed at all heat selections basically tells you how many BTU's the heater is supplying. True electric heat output capability when heating 100% of the time for all practical purposes using 117 AC is approx 340 BTU's for each 100 watts consumed. 1500 watts = 5120 BTU's capability, 1000 watts = 3400 BTU's, 750 watts = 2550 BTU's. Just for a quick reference.
Even heat circulation is far more desirable than hot spot local heating. This is where a lower wattage setting cube heater shines more like an oil filled heater. As for fan noise? It varies greatly with different brands and even in the same brand of heaters. Fan balance etc makes so much difference as does the rubber/elastic vibration dampening feet under the heat cube. We plug in every cube fan forced electric heater at the store before we buy the heater and listen to it. Only once did a store refuse to allow us to do so and we walked away. We like very quiet running heaters but don't care for the extra room an oil filled heater needs even though they are the quietest type! Especially in our truck campers where floor space is so limited. A working smoke detector or 2 is also very important to have too! NO excuses!
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