Best Way To Treat/Filter Campground Well Water???

drsteve wrote:
Bleach is the best thing to use..

Agree. However, an alternative is Purogene which is used to disinfect airline water tanks.

Purogene's claim to fame is that it breaks down bio-films which adhere to the walls of water tanks.

Two things to keep in mind: EPA is moving to lower regs and requirements for water and air plus North Dakota has widespread contamination of soil and water from fracking spills. Depending on where you are located might want to look under the covers

Bleach is the best thing to use. If you use too much and get a residual smell, just flush the system some more, or use ascorbic acid (vitamin C) to neutralize it.

lawrosa wrote:

Boon Docker wrote:
I think the 3% peroxide would be pretty useless. You need the 32% H2O2 to do the job, but you have to be careful. That stuff burns he skin pretty quickly.

Pool stores have 30%. Its expensive. Just use bleach...

http://www.lesliespool.com/aqua-silk-13342-Chlorine-Free-Sanitizer-05-gal/13342.htm?xzm2&ecmpid=law_pla_search_13342&adtype=paid&gclid=CjwKCAiAxJPVBRB4EiwAsCA4aVfm9obTHZnoRFMWozgSiJJ_lnfXd1IvwK-IVX0_s5AuKd8JEP46qBoC3JUQAvD_BwE

That is pricey, I pay $32 Cdn per gallon for 32% here in Alberta.

TechWriter wrote:

darleyhavidson wrote:

I was looking at UV filters, but I have no experience with them.

I've used a UV filter since I started full timing in 2013. At the very least, my UV filter stopped an algae "bloom" in my water system.

Anyway, you need at least a good sediment filter before a UV filter to ensure the water is as clear as possible. Otherwise, a UV filter will be ineffective. Finally, UV filters are rated for maximum water flow. If water goes through a UV filter faster than its rated maximum, the filter will be ineffective. I'd suggest a minimum flow rate of 5 GPM.

Good UV filters are pricey . . . I paid about $900 for mine, a Sterilight Cobalt SCM-200 ("Sterilight" is now "Viqua/Sterilight".)

If you're interested, I'd suggest shopping around -- Fresh Water Systems.

Here's my water filtration setup . . .


A = Reguator
B = Sediment filter
C = Carbon filter
D = Water softener
E = Flow meter
F = UV filter

That is a nice setup. Thanks for sharing.

darleyhavidson wrote:

I was looking at UV filters, but I have no experience with them.

I've used a UV filter since I started full timing in 2013. At the very least, my UV filter stopped an algae "bloom" in my water system.

Anyway, you need at least a good sediment filter before a UV filter to ensure the water is as clear as possible. Otherwise, a UV filter will be ineffective. Finally, UV filters are rated for maximum water flow. If water goes through a UV filter faster than its rated maximum, the filter will be ineffective. I'd suggest a minimum flow rate of 5 GPM.

Good UV filters are pricey . . . I paid about $900 for mine, a Sterilight Cobalt SCM-200 ("Sterilight" is now "Viqua/Sterilight".)

If you're interested, I'd suggest shopping around -- Fresh Water Systems.

Here's my water filtration setup . . .


A = Reguator
B = Sediment filter
C = Carbon filter
D = Water softener
E = Flow meter
F = UV filter

darleyhavidson wrote:

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
All states and licensed drinking water providers are required to adhere to the fed. EPA revised ground water rules (RGWR) when the provider is a private operator. Under those rules, a water system serving less than 25 persons is not required to submit bacteriological or Nitrate/ ite samples. Many HOAs and small rv parks fall into this category. They classify as non transient community systems. Beware.
Water systems that serve more than 25 persons in any month to transients during their open season classify as 'Transient community water systems '. Under the EPA rules, watera must.be bacteriologically sampled before opening, every month of operation. Nitrate/ ite samples are also required annually or triannually depending on region, history. In any month that coliform bacteria are present, or nitrate levels exceed 10ppm, notices must be posted at all public points of water access advising of the issue.
Non health contaminants like iron, calcium, that cause hard or distasteful water are not regulated.
State and Fed. parks are exempt from EPA rule. Our DOH drinking water program admin. tells me they are self regulated.
A non community transient water system manager,
Max

Max, thanks for taking the time to post this information. Very useful info to be made aware of. I am not sure what the Campground owner classifies his campground as. Nor do I know who he would report this information to and if that Department would actually fact check his information he provided.

Meaning: If he claimed his water system served 25 persons or less each month, but in actuality was serving over 100 persons, I am not sure how that is regulated. Unless a State Department individual physically visited the campground.

As it is, this campground has 60 full time sites (that are occupied) with another 40 vacant lots that were just constructed last fall.

Thanks again for taking the time to post the information. Good stuff!

If the sites are occupied full time the water system qualifies as a community water system, is regulated by the state DOH with EPA RGWR oversight. same sanitary and health concerns like nitrates, AFAIK . PM me with the name of your camp. Ill find the records. Im curious too.
I have forwarded this thread to our state Drinking Water admin., asked her to chip in

Boon Docker wrote:
I think the 3% peroxide would be pretty useless. You need the 32% H2O2 to do the job, but you have to be careful. That stuff burns he skin pretty quickly.

Pool stores have 30%. Its expensive. Just use bleach...

http://www.lesliespool.com/aqua-silk-13342-Chlorine-Free-Sanitizer-05-gal/13342.htm?xzm2&ecmpid=law_pla_search_13342&adtype=paid&gclid=CjwKCAiAxJPVBRB4EiwAsCA4aVfm9obTHZnoRFMWozgSiJJ_lnfXd1IvwK-IVX0_s5AuKd8JEP46qBoC3JUQAvD_BwE

I think the 3% peroxide would be pretty useless. You need the 32% H2O2 to do the job, but you have to be careful. That stuff burns he skin pretty quickly.

darleyhavidson wrote:

naturist wrote:
My Master's degree is in water/waste water chemistry/civil engineering.

There is no practical way to ELIMINATE those water supply bacteria. No water system on the planet (that operates at reasonable cost) can do it. You can't either.

My suggestion to you is this: sanitize your RV water system a couple times a year, and run lots of water through it.

Use either chlorine bleach, or hydrogen peroxide (my preferred way) to sanitize, then use water freely. The smell develops when the water stagnates. It is a product of the anaerobic bacteria, perfectly normal, and to be expected. It will develop faster in water from a well or spring that is not treated with chlorine, partly because the chlorine knocks down (but does NOT sterilize) the bacteria level, and partly because the chlorine is an oxidizing agent that removes the sulfur.

Thanks for the information. What method do you use when sanitizing with Hydrogen Peroxide? What concentrate of Hydrogen Peroxide do you use?

I have read a few articles/comments that indicate that the std 3 percent Hydrogen Peroxide sold over the counter won't work as a sanitizer in an RV. You have to use commercial grade.

I do use a little over the counter HP to help neutralize the bleach smell/taste after I sanitize with bleach.