nevadanick wrote:
2014 Tiffin Red 38QRA,2015 GMC 4wd crewcab standard bed SLT Z71 with some other options. I contacted them and they make one for it. So did you tap into the wires at the back of the truck ?
Thank you Sir for getting back with that info. This way, if I know if any info I'm giving you will pertain to the right type of coach/engine/chassis. Yes, I did tap into the tail light wiring, right at the left rear tail light. Here's a brief description of how I do it.
1. Run the wires from the plug on the front of the toad, up into the engine bay, but down as low as possible, along the frame, paying close attention to moving parts. i.e. steering parts, suspension parts etc.
2. Continue along the frame, when applicable, intermingle with existing wires etc. that are in the same area, all the time, wire-tying at various intervals.
3. Keep running them along the frame, up and over the rear diff and, finally up into the left rear corner of the bed.
4. Remove left tail light.
5. Locate the Combo left turn/brake light wire by probing. Note here, some folks frown on probing wires with a test light. They claim it does damage and, can lead to intrusive corrosion etc. at the probe point. Well, I've only been doing that procedure for a few decades, (around four) and, I've never, EVER seen any or, encountered any damaged wires, faulty circuits, light bulbs, anything, due the probing of the wires to that circuit.
6. Now, here's the technical stuff. Without cutting the combo turn/brake wire, I strip a small section, about 1/2" worth. I then "T" into/onto that stripped section with the appropriate wire from the plug up front. I wrap it around the stripped section tightly and, apply a small amount of solder. I then wrap it all with good quality electrical tape. DONE.
7. Just below that "T" you just made, I do cut the combo/turn wire and, this is where I insert a diode. And, just to be clear, I do not use those fancy, huge diode blocks from Camping World or, any other RV supply house. I use regular old Radio Shack high amp diodes. They usually cost a whopping $3 or $4 bucks per 4-pack. I get the largest ones they sell.
Now, that circuit, left turn/brake, is done. Now, for the running lights. Locate the running light wire via probing action or, if you already know which one it is, then you strip it, just like for the combo left turn/brake wire. You "T" into it and, apply solder, wrap, you're done. No diode is needed in that line. The reason I don't install a diode in that circuit is because the running lights from the coach, illuminate ALL the running lights on the toad, and that includes the front ones too. (not the headlights).
Having the fronts illuminated, does not bother me at all. In fact, it's a reminder that my system is at work. If the illumination of the front marker lights would bother you, then you can add a diode in the same position as you did with the combo turn/brake wire.
Now, for the right side. Here is where I need to extend one of the wires that you ran along the frame to the left tail light. I run it along the back side lower part of the bed, and tie it along the way. I then remove the right tail light and, tap into the right turn/brake light wire and, do all of the same tactics as you did on the left side. DONE!
Now, you're completely done. I'm not one of those that wires in diodes to the incoming wires from the coach to protect the coach lighting system, should the toad lights be activated prior to disconnecting the umbilical from the two. The wife has done it several times. She's got in the truck, started it up and, before I got a chance to un plug the umbilical.
Guess what, the coach lights lit up, and, it did not BURN TO THE GROUND, contrary to popular belief. You can install them if you like.
I'm including a simple diagram I drew up when I wired our '11 Honda CRV in the same manner. The primary difference in that toad, as opposed to many other toads I've done is, the CRV has independent AMBER turn signals. For that, you'll see in the diagram, a "2 wire to 3 wire tail light converter". I won't bother going into that, unless you ask.
But, you'll see it in the diagram. DO NOT PAY ATTENTION TO IT. It's only there for folks that want to wire up the amber turn signals to work correctly while you're towing your toad. When you look at the diagram, just picture the combo left turn/brake, coming from the coach, "Teeing" into the combo left turn/brake of the trucks wiring. Any questions? Feel free to ask.
Scott
