Can I use main breaker as battery disconnect?
I am getting ready to purchase and install a battery disconnect. I am very familiar with residential wiring and electricity but I have not familiarized myself with rv wiring. Could I just use the ...
Forum Discussion
TURBOJIMMY - I originally installed my four position BLUE SEA SWITCHES for other reasons but it turned out they made GREAT BATTERY DISCONNECT switches in the positive side of things.
ALot of folks like to install the BATTERY DISCONNECT switches in the NEG path but either way works just fine. In the AUTOMOBILES where everywhere is very congested with possible cable short to frame ground areas it makes sense to mount the switches in the NEG PATH so that the wrench you are using on the POS SIDE terminal doesn't touch any frame Ground. My trailers were never that congested so I never worried about that problem.
I was always able in the past finding cheap DONUT TYPE CURRENT TAPS so always used the POSITIVE SIDE cabling for that. Now those type of CURRENT SAMPLE DEVICES are very expensive making one to use an actual HIGH CURRENT SAMPLE LINK which always makes sense to be mounted in the NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE side. Even this has small wiring going to panels etc so you have to individually fuse those as well to prevent accidental touching a small LCD meter wire to frame ground and burning out the wire. I like the Hall Effect Current Sensor (DONUT TYPE) much better. Then the remote meter panel wiring is all low voltage - low current requirements.
ALot of folks like to install the BATTERY DISCONNECT switches in the NEG path but either way works just fine. In the AUTOMOBILES where everywhere is very congested with possible cable short to frame ground areas it makes sense to mount the switches in the NEG PATH so that the wrench you are using on the POS SIDE terminal doesn't touch any frame Ground. My trailers were never that congested so I never worried about that problem.
I was always able in the past finding cheap DONUT TYPE CURRENT TAPS so always used the POSITIVE SIDE cabling for that. Now those type of CURRENT SAMPLE DEVICES are very expensive making one to use an actual HIGH CURRENT SAMPLE LINK which always makes sense to be mounted in the NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE side. Even this has small wiring going to panels etc so you have to individually fuse those as well to prevent accidental touching a small LCD meter wire to frame ground and burning out the wire. I like the Hall Effect Current Sensor (DONUT TYPE) much better. Then the remote meter panel wiring is all low voltage - low current requirements.
