Forum Discussion
tatest
Mar 03, 2017Explorer II
My bike rack is designed for a 1 1/4 inch receiver. There are a lot of bike racks available like that, as the market is huge, with most minivans and small SUVs coming with Class I or Class II hitches.
You need to find out the rating of that particular hitch. 200 pounds max for Class I, 300 for Class II, but that is max, as installed it could be rated less than maximum for class.
I would not put a carrying load on an adapter that extends that class of hitch. The weight carried rating is about bending loads on the hitch, you don't want to give the load any more leverage than necessary.
Best lightweight bike rack I had was a bolt-on to a flimsy import car bumper (back when cars had exposed bumpers). It worked because the bending moments were carried by a pair of straps running forward to the front edge of the deck lid. There are bike racks today using the same principle, but on a TT you would need to find a place to anchor the straps. Or for a rack without straps, you might still improvise something to stabilize the top of the bike rack.
You need to find out the rating of that particular hitch. 200 pounds max for Class I, 300 for Class II, but that is max, as installed it could be rated less than maximum for class.
I would not put a carrying load on an adapter that extends that class of hitch. The weight carried rating is about bending loads on the hitch, you don't want to give the load any more leverage than necessary.
Best lightweight bike rack I had was a bolt-on to a flimsy import car bumper (back when cars had exposed bumpers). It worked because the bending moments were carried by a pair of straps running forward to the front edge of the deck lid. There are bike racks today using the same principle, but on a TT you would need to find a place to anchor the straps. Or for a rack without straps, you might still improvise something to stabilize the top of the bike rack.
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