Confused about bearings

Lynnmor wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
If you have a Dexter setup, follow their procedure; you TORQUE the nut to something like 50 lbs THEN back it off to the next hole for the cotter pin. This seats the bearings and squeezes out excess grease. Dexter has the procedure on their website. You can also follow Jbarca's excellent tutorial with photos found on this website as a sticky.

This is the kind of wrong information that will get you into trouble. Trailer wheel bearings are to have a small amount of clearance and no pre-load. The procedure for adjusting wheel bearings has been the same for about a hundred years and folks still can't get it right.

HOGWASH ... You are the one that doesn't have it right and I'm amazed at folks making rash, uninformed and like yours TOTALLY WRONG statements about things they clearly demonstrate how little they actually know. What Ron3rd described in his shortened version for cotter pin type retainers is correct INCLUDING THE 50lb pre load. Page 44 of the Dexter Axles Service Manual HERE says ....

Bearing Adjustment and Hub Replacement

If the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required,
the following adjustment procedure must be followed:

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut
back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the
previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly
slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50
lbs.-ft. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque.
Do not rotate the hub.

3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.

4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation
lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin (or
locking tang in the case of E-Z Lube™).

5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut (or locking
tang in the case of E-Z Lube™).

6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the
cotter pin (or locking tang).

Larry