Confused about bearings

MFL wrote:
Larry, what Ron missed, was after tightening to 50 ft lbs, you need to loosen the nut, then finger tight, then back to first open pin slot.

I'm sure Ron knows this,
Jerry

I don't see it that way since he said to follow the procedure laid out by Dexter and that the directions were available on the web. and I didn't view his post as trying to be 100% correct since he had qualifiers like "something like that" in his post.

In any event the main thing I was objecting to was the pre loading step that is in fact specified by Dexter who is a MAJOR manufacturer of trailer wheel assemblies and axles.

Larry

rjxj wrote:
POPCORN.....MORE POPCORN

and beer. Must not forget the beer. Preferably Guinness Stout or Lowenbrau.
Moose Drool is also adequate.

For good information, I recommend Department of The Army Technical Manual 9-214, Inspection, Care, and Maintenance of Antifriction Bearings.
The copy I have is dated November, 1959.
It will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about bearings, and more.
It is readily available online.

POPCORN.....MORE POPCORN

Larry, what Ron missed, was after tightening to 50 ft lbs, you need to loosen the nut, then finger tight, then back to first open pin slot.

I'm sure Ron knows this,
Jerry

Not all bearings are the same, mine requires 150lbs preload, newer lube sealed cartridge.
Frank.

Lynnmor wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
If you have a Dexter setup, follow their procedure; you TORQUE the nut to something like 50 lbs THEN back it off to the next hole for the cotter pin. This seats the bearings and squeezes out excess grease. Dexter has the procedure on their website. You can also follow Jbarca's excellent tutorial with photos found on this website as a sticky.

This is the kind of wrong information that will get you into trouble. Trailer wheel bearings are to have a small amount of clearance and no pre-load. The procedure for adjusting wheel bearings has been the same for about a hundred years and folks still can't get it right.

HOGWASH ... You are the one that doesn't have it right and I'm amazed at folks making rash, uninformed and like yours TOTALLY WRONG statements about things they clearly demonstrate how little they actually know. What Ron3rd described in his shortened version for cotter pin type retainers is correct INCLUDING THE 50lb pre load. Page 44 of the Dexter Axles Service Manual HERE says ....

Bearing Adjustment and Hub Replacement

If the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required,
the following adjustment procedure must be followed:

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut
back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the
previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly
slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50
lbs.-ft. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque.
Do not rotate the hub.

3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.

4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation
lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin (or
locking tang in the case of E-Z Lube™).

5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut (or locking
tang in the case of E-Z Lube™).

6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the
cotter pin (or locking tang).

Larry

Ron3rd wrote:
If you have a Dexter setup, follow their procedure; you TORQUE the nut to something like 50 lbs THEN back it off to the next hole for the cotter pin. This seats the bearings and squeezes out excess grease. Dexter has the procedure on their website. You can also follow Jbarca's excellent tutorial with photos found on this website as a sticky.

This is the kind of wrong information that will get you into trouble. Trailer wheel bearings are to have a small amount of clearance and no pre-load. The procedure for adjusting wheel bearings has been the same for about a hundred years and folks still can't get it right.

If you have a Dexter setup, follow their procedure; you TORQUE the nut to something like 50 lbs THEN back it off to the next hole for the cotter pin. This seats the bearings and squeezes out excess grease. Dexter has the procedure on their website. You can also follow Jbarca's excellent tutorial with photos found on this website as a sticky.

I have worked on vehicles for 55 years and this is my technique. After bearings are packed, smear some grease on spindle and hub races, slide hub on install outer bearing and nut. I spin wheel/ hub as alternating tightening and loosening nut several times, to make sure that hub is all the way on. Back of nut just past nearest cotter key hole, then finger tight nut to install key. No extra grease inside hub, as BEARINGS DO NOT CONSUME grease. Never had one failure.