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tekman741's avatar
tekman741
Explorer
Apr 21, 2014

Coupler Lock by reese

Hello all,
My trailer is parked at my in-laws and they are having health issues and no one is there during the day. I go over once a week and do a walk around the trailer. It's covered, has two locks on it a oversized shackle by master lock thru the coupler with safty chains, and a ball coupler lock by reese. Yesterday I see the reese lock dangling, someone got it unlocked and reversed the shackle. I'm guessing a true thief would have a universal key but no bolt cutters?. Their key did not work on the master lock? There was some scrapping on the outside where the key gets inserts but it could have been me with my key. Anyone have suggestion or experience with the reese lock. Could someone have pride it off with out bending anything? I'm in process of buying a cabin so The TT may get sold soon therefore I'm not buying another lock if you asking.
  • Reese has a wide array of coupler locks. Some appear to me fairly easy to be picked. Others use a key similar to the Abloy/Abus type (which are impossible to pick without a specially designed tool), and still others use a round Ace lock. I think Reese even has a hitch pin where one supplies their own padlock.
  • tekman741 wrote:

    ...ball coupler lock by reese. Yesterday I see the reese lock dangling, someone got it unlocked and reversed the shackle....


    Would that be the same lock that the YouTube videos show being opened in less than 10 seconds?
  • Here is the deal for those assuming anything. My security is not left to a lock the trailer is in an area with the inlaws and 2 other neighbors plus others. It's just normal neighborhood with houses only 50feet to 100feet apart. It's parked in a divit so the hitch is low. It would take some time but you would have to retract the rear stabilizer then the front, crank up on the front jack. put blocks under the front stabilizer lower the front jack put blocks under it. Retract front stabilizer and now you can get the tow vehicle in place. The stabilizer cannot lift my unit, it has to be done in that order and they have to have a lot of 6x6 or 4x4's. plus with the RV cover on it very unlikely to get noticed by local police or neighbors. i did think the locks where undefeatable but I'm glad I did not put my eggs in only that basket. I think the would be thieves saw it was too much time/work and left but now the local pd and neighbors have all been notified.
  • IMHO it sounds like if the OP does not upgrade security in SOME fashion they are not going to have to worry about selling the unit when they buy a cabin.
    Good Luck, Mike
  • The best lock I've encountered so far is the Bolt hitch pin lock. It uses the key from your tow vehicle. I used to use a Reese hitch pin lock myself, but the Bolt is so much easier to work with (i.e. one fewer key to use) that I use that.

    I know the OP isn't buying a lock, but I always buy one grade above the average. For example, if the average is a disk lock, I buy an Abus style with the dimple key or the Abloy style wafer tumbler, for bump resistance.

    For a trailer, I've found that most trailer hitch locks are a deterrence at best. I use a long shackle padlock on my BAL X-Chocks, and due to a recommendation here, I have a Brinks "J" wheel lock set on my travel trailer with disc locks keyed alike. Yes, the trailer can be made to move, but it will take a cordless grinder and plenty of time. The only step up in security would be putting the TT on blocks or importing "locking winter wheels" from the UK, and storing the rims/tires elsewhere.

    As for locks, one brand can have various qualities of locks. For example, Master has some locks which used to be shimmed by a piece of a Coke can. Other lock models by Master use ball bearings, and can't be shimmed.
  • The thing I found most effective was to remove at least one wheel. Even that almost didn't work. Someone came by with a wrong wheel and jammed it on, but it would go far enough to get the nuts on and then they couldn't get it off..... That's the way I found it.
  • We tried numerous locks on storage containers kept at a remote piece of property in the desert. Each time the locks were defeated using, cordless grinder, bolt cutters, sledge hammer, liquid nitrogen, cordless dremel tool (this all according to the sheriff). We had 11 break ins over the course of 2 years.

    The only thing that worked was to bury a post in front of the doors 4 feet deep with cement so that the door couldn't be opened without removing the post. For some reason the theives didn't bother removing the post.

    Locks can be defeated.
  • So for the sake of conversation is there a lock which is better than the rest? or particulares you look for in a lock?
  • There are many ways to non-destructively compromise most locks, particularly those with shackles. Most cases it is not necessary to mess with a key. Locksmiths know this, and it gets taught in spy school, and probably in prisons. I would not be surprised to find instructions on the Internet.

    But I am not going to give intructions here. All I'll say is that the weaknesses are to serve convience of the lock owner. If you can close a lock without using the key, someone can likely open it without using a key.

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