I just rented a seasonal site for this year and I will be putting a deck in. The deck cannot go into the ground, must be in small sections, and I will not attach to my tt. I am thinking of building a set of floating decks and bolting them together but am not sure just yet. Please share any ideas that may be helpful and also how can I keep this deck from blowing away without digging in the ground? I saw several decks at the campground but was not sure how they keep then from blowing away.

just use the concrete blocks as shown in the lower right of the picture.2x6's are plenty heavy, we had a 8 by 20 deck at our seasonal (now it's 12 by 28 and has a roof) but it was NEVER going to blow away. green treated 2x4, 8 feet, is 13 lbs by itself. Multiple that by x number of boards in a deck, I doubt it's going to move much.edit: read the pounds wrong, 8 feet green treated is over 20 lbs

What ever you do, get the parks approval before you spend any money. Over the years we've had several "seasonal" sites and each one had different rules pertaining to what you could and could not build. If it were me, I would talk to the office and get a copy of the latest rules. Then walk around taking pictures of what you like. Don't be surprised if what you like can no longer be built. The building rules might of changed over time and what you really like might not conform to current standards. We used to like wooden decks that are level with RV. Having the deck raised is great for some storage under deck if done right. But found that they get slippery in winter time. Last one we put in was patio blocks at ground level with a wooded railing around attached to a canopy. Also be aware that some people hide behind the ADA rules to enlarge their deck. link with lots of ideas. https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+decks&biw=1301&bih=589&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwjztI6X7tjRAhVW0WMKHSzYDIcQ_AUIBygC

I would place these on the ground. Get them level and place them about 6' on center.Click HereYou can slide 4X6 beams through the brackets without securing them. nothing should move.

It will take a quite strong wind to move a deck; it is relatively heavy, has a low center of gravity, and has comparatively little surface area exposed to the wind. Frankly, I suspect you'd be more likely to have a travel trailer or fifth wheel trailer blow over (particularly if the wind is from the side) than most decks move significantly.You can get anchors for animal tethers that are like large corkscrews at feed/farm supply sorts of stores, and attach the deck with cables or whatever to them. A few of them would ensure that the deck stayed in position regardless. You should, of course, verify with the management that they would be permitted, which probably depends somewhat on their main concerns. These anchors don't leave objectionable holes in the ground or harm the grass etc. much, but they could wreck havoc with utilities that are close to the ground.

I use two 8'x8' sections pinned side by side and have since added another 6'x8' section.They are simply 1x6" decking planks screwed onto 2x4's as a base and placed right on the ground. It has never moved in the 9 years we've had it. Everything is treated lumber.

Deck idea for seasonal site. | Good Sam Community

23 Replies

westend
Explorer
Jan 26, 2017
tinner12002 wrote:
westend wrote:
Built the base using 10inch 16ga studs

Can you define this better?

FYI, a stud is a component of a framed wall that is positioned vertically. There is no "gauge" to a wooden stud.

A joist is a framing member that is positioned horizontally and is used to support floors and ceilings.

A 2x4 joist will not support much weight at any span over 4'. It is better to use larger joists as the price difference is not great and they will be able to handle the loads involved.

No part of a wooden frame should contact the ground. That includes AC2 treated wood and other species like Cedar and Redwood that have some resistance to moisture. If typical measures aren't indicated to support decking, bricks can be used and will elevate the frame enough for added durability. Placing wood on the ground will lead to rot but some folks may wish to buy wood, build it, and then burn it when done. YMMV

16ga metal structural studs, 1 5/8" by 10" by 8ft long, basically the same dimension as a 2" X 10" X 8' wood joist, lighter than wood, galvanized so it won't rot, may rust but not in my lifetime.

Thanks, I should have thought metal studs but there are few on this Forum that know how to get them or use them.
dee74
Explorer
Jan 26, 2017
PackerBacker wrote:
I use two 8'x8' sections pinned side by side and have since added another 6'x8' section.

They are simply 1x6" decking planks screwed onto 2x4's as a base and placed right on the ground. It has never moved in the 9 years we've had it. Everything is treated lumber.

How far apart did you space your 2x4s?
trailerbikecamp
Explorer
Jan 26, 2017
I built a covered deck last year. For the base, I used deck piers that are available at most hardware stores. To level the deck I used a short section of 4X4 that was custom cut for each position. The deck is 2X8 spaced on 16" centers. At each corner I put in 4X4 posts for roof support. I used a total of 6 posts. One at each corner, and halfway down the length. The posts at the rear of the structure are shorter to alow for rain run off. For the roof structure, I used 2X6 also spaced on 16" centers. The roof itself is corrugated plastic that most people use on greenhouses. I put on the corrugated plastic to allow light through. I also put in a back wall to cover the dirt embankment behind the lot. The bottom portion of the wall is 1X6 fence boards capped with a 2X6 giving a small shelf for drinks etc. The top half of the wall is lattice, held inplace by quarter round trim pieces.

The whole structure is peessure treated and screwed together. I used screws so it can be taken apart and moved. I built it 8X16 because a friend has a float that he uses for heavy equipment, and the 8X16 will fit easily on this trailer. I have a photo, but not on a website that will let me post it on here. If interested send a PM and I will send you the photo.
tinner12002
Explorer
Jan 26, 2017
westend wrote:
Built the base using 10inch 16ga studs

Can you define this better?

FYI, a stud is a component of a framed wall that is positioned vertically. There is no "gauge" to a wooden stud.

A joist is a framing member that is positioned horizontally and is used to support floors and ceilings.

A 2x4 joist will not support much weight at any span over 4'. It is better to use larger joists as the price difference is not great and they will be able to handle the loads involved.

No part of a wooden frame should contact the ground. That includes AC2 treated wood and other species like Cedar and Redwood that have some resistance to moisture. If typical measures aren't indicated to support decking, bricks can be used and will elevate the frame enough for added durability. Placing wood on the ground will lead to rot but some folks may wish to buy wood, build it, and then burn it when done. YMMV

16ga metal structural studs, 1 5/8" by 10" by 8ft long, basically the same dimension as a 2" X 10" X 8' wood joist, lighter than wood, galvanized so it won't rot, may rust but not in my lifetime.
WallynDiane
Explorer
Jan 24, 2017
We had the Amish build us a deck for our Park Model last year. They used concrete piers which the 4x4 posts slit into. I think they were that side. Our deck was 24' long by 8'. They used bolts to attach the 8'x8' sections together in case we had to move something.

We then built the railing very sturdy so a foam filled aluminum awning could be built. Worked out well.

Good luck.
mowin
Explorer
Jan 24, 2017
Our CG allows decks, but they have to be at ground level. Not elevated to camper door height. I'm assuming because it's easier to disassemble and remove if it's not on piers. I hate the deck on the ground, I'd rather have stairs leading off the deck, than leading onto the deck.

One smart camper found a old camper frame and built his deck on that.
Once in place he blocked the frame up so the tires were not on the ground. If he decides to leave the CG, he can hook up to the trailer and bring it home. Deck isn't on piers, and the CG was happy.
Community Alumni
Jan 24, 2017
Got my PT lumber at Lowes; never checked for any on-ground rating but it seemed to have held up after many years.
2012Coleman
Explorer II
Jan 24, 2017
Most big box stores sell PT wood that is not rated for ground contact. However, beginning last spring, Home Depot started selling PT wood that is rated for ground contact. The wood is marked or tagged as such.

For better drainage around this type of structure, dig a trench and fill it with pea gravel, setting the PT wood on the gravel.
Community Alumni
Jan 24, 2017
dee74 wrote:
Packer your design may be what I am looking for, simple and serves its purpose.

Most of the folks who are seasonal in our campground have the same. Just make sure to use treated lumber and you are good for 10-15 years on the ground. Like I wrote above, mine is 9 seasons old and looks like I can get another 3-5 years out of it at least.

Last summer (2016) I did change out 3 boards due to some minor warping, one of which was showing some signs of rot beginning.

... Eric
westend
Explorer
Jan 24, 2017
Built the base using 10inch 16ga studs

Can you define this better?

FYI, a stud is a component of a framed wall that is positioned vertically. There is no "gauge" to a wooden stud.

A joist is a framing member that is positioned horizontally and is used to support floors and ceilings.

A 2x4 joist will not support much weight at any span over 4'. It is better to use larger joists as the price difference is not great and they will be able to handle the loads involved.

No part of a wooden frame should contact the ground. That includes AC2 treated wood and other species like Cedar and Redwood that have some resistance to moisture. If typical measures aren't indicated to support decking, bricks can be used and will elevate the frame enough for added durability. Placing wood on the ground will lead to rot but some folks may wish to buy wood, build it, and then burn it when done. YMMV