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j-d's avatar
j-d
Explorer II
Sep 08, 2015

DIY Baseplate Install Observations

Setting 2006 Corolla up for towing. Used Roadmaster Blackhawk II towbar, used Roadmaster 1165-1 baseplate. This is the fifth baseplate I've worked on and the most difficult. Some of it was the bar was a one-piece welded assembly, not the usual multi-part design typically used by RM. It fit very tightly into place. Took jack, prybar and of course hammer to get it in place. That may be unique to Corolla or the bar being used might have been sprung from the original install. What I want to offer here is more generic:

1. That cheap-looking unit body frame is made of some very tough steel.

3. If the install includes drilling the bumper "core" or "bar" or whatever it's called, THAT steel is even tougher.

3. Must have a good quality bit/bits.

4. Must have a powerful LOW SPEED drill for large holes. I have a 1/2" hammer drill from HF that has lots of power, TILL I slow it down. NO torque at low RPM to keep from burning up the bit. Luckily I have a 70-year-old B&D 1/2" 375-RPM antique. That, with heavy pressure and grease on the drill bit, got me through. Actually lowered the car onto it to drill one of the vertical holes in the bumper bar.

5. Don't trim the Fascia till the very end of the install. In the case of the Corolla, instructions were to cut a "+" shaped piece out of the fascia, both horizontally and vertically. Once it was all in place, all I had to cut out was one vertical piece.

Nice thing about Corolla is the whole bumper structure goes back in place. Some baseplates for other makes require leaving a piece or two off.
  • #1 really got to me. I thought I was going to drill four holes with one bit. Honda Fit, in my case. If I knew that it was going to take me all day to drill four holes, I would have paid a shop to do the install.

    #5 got me. The cuts the instructions said to make turned out to be unnecessary, a different piece needed to be cut out.

    My installation required a remove and replace of the bumper core, to get at the installation location behind the core. Turned out for this installation the core is slightly sprung when installed, so it would have helped a lot to have a second pair of hands for a pry bar while lining up bolts to reinstall that piece.
  • #1 surprised me too. Honda CRV with Demco BP. Four holes took two hours and I had to go buy new bits.
  • when drilling a hole bigger it is best to start with a bit a little larger then the hole and work your way up to the size hole you need!
    Just sayn
  • Mr: want-a-be meant to start with a small drill size and then use drills of progressive larger size until you end with the correct and final size.

    navegator
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    Enlarging an existing hole in thin metal... I have a set of these
    "Step Bits".
    They're wonderful for larger (like 1/2") holes in light aluminum. A GOOD one (my set is HF) might be work well on unit body.
    The Corolla-Drilling went MUCH better when I switched over to the old drill motor.
  • I had the same problem with drilling the holes. There was a couple of things that a local supplier told me that made it almost simple. Get a quality drill bit and cutting oil. You may not have to use the cutting oil as opposed to using some other oil but it is really thick and sticks to the end of the bit well. The other thing is to not let the bit heat up. Stop often and let it cool off. Got the job done quickly and with one bit.

    Forgot to add I used two size bits. Drill one smaller hole and then enlarge with larger bit.
  • Unit-bit is definitely the way to go. I've got a Snap-on one ($65) that's served me well for years.

    Most of the frame rails and other critical pieces of the car's structure are made of high strength steel these days, hence the problems drilling.

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