do i need a WD hitch?

Looks like you need a hitch pin or something that goes across that bracket and through the chain loop to keep the chain from turning and dropping out. Parked straight, both chains are under tension, but on a turn, the inside chain will unload and you want to be sure it doesn't wiggle out when unloaded.

OR, if you have a scale on the side of the freeway that is CLOSED< you can go into one of those, and pay nothing to get weighed, yeah you do need to move the setup forward and backwards a few times. BUT< you can find out what you generally weigh empty, loaded per say, with the bars hooked up, and at different links on the bars. I've done this in the past, takes about 20-30 min, but gives me a VERY GOOD way to figure out where I needed the chain links to be to get the best at the end, transfer back of the FA wts etc.

Marty

There is far too much force on those bars to fall out. I would not assume you need a WDH. As you said, it tows well now. Spend $14 at a scale and get at least the two passes, unhitched and tongue on ball as you tow now. Then you can evaluate what if any upgrades are appropriate.

ok so I took some pics of how I assume its hooked up. sonow I just need to take some measurements to figure out the chain length.

Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum limit of 640px maximum width.

thanks for all the info!

I will either figure out how to use mine or buy a new one. on mine the bars seem like they could possibly fall out of the hitch, theres a cup in top and bottom that the bars sit in,if the bars lost "load" they could poss. fall out but I could be wrong. the bars say reese on em.

Ditto APT's post above. If I were you, I would use the WD hitch.
Take a look at this thread for help on setting it up.
Barney

I cannot see how they are a lot of trouble. Some are easier to adjust than others, but once set pretty easy to use on each hook/unhook.

Receiver rating for most is 500-600 pounds without a WDH. Hard to imaging a 24' TT with less than 500 pounds when loaded up for camping.

The purpose of a WDH is to restore weight to the front/steer axle and remove weight from the rear axle. Here is an example. 800 pounds TW trailer. Drop hitch on ball, rear axle increases by 1100 pounds, front axle lose 300 pounds. Apply WD to restore that 300 pounds to front axle, rear axle goes to about 650 pounds and 150 back to the TT axles.

Your 3/4 ton isn't likely to exceed the rear axle rating. with that TT. You might be losing 200-300 pounds on the front axle which may not be noticeable. Many people measure fender height as as estimate for relative effects from TW and WDH. That might not work for that TT/TV combo. A trip to the scales might be worth $14. Get 3 passes, truck alone, truck with TT without WD, truck with TT with WD.

If your Suburban has the OEM receiver (round tube), I highly recommend getting a replacement. They had a high failure rate when new, let alone 10 years old now.

I've driven more miles without a WD than I have with. Reality is as noted by some. If you remove too much wt off the front axel, such that steering etc becomes and issue, then you need a WD system to put the lost wt back onto the front axel. I've personally found that for typical 8 lug rigs with 8600-9900 gvwr's, that number is about 200-250 lbs. I took all of 60 lbs off the FA of my 96 CC with a 24' trailer that had 650-700 lbs of HW depending upon how it was loaded. I really noticed no difference in handling with or with out per say.

WHERE I did notice using a WD with the two trucks I towed the trailer with, was cross winds. The trailer did not rock sideways as much with a WD, a bit less when I went to a dual cam setup. NONE of the three ways I have towed my old TT did I have fishtail sway in higher winds etc. I found if I got a wind gust above 40, once in the 60 mph range going across the Columbia river, the whole unit move a lane sideways one time. Semi's were moving a lane sideways that trip across on I 205. An interesting trip across the river........

So yes, I would recommend a WD or dual cam with your trailer, but is it REALLY needed......more than likely not. But until you weigh or measure things as Don AKA burbman pointed out, you will not know for sure.

Marty

The 2500 burbs sit higher in the rear so they level out when you put a load in the back or on the hitch. What you don't want to do is offload the front axle any.

First thing I would do is measure from the ground to the front wheel wells unloaded, then add the trailer and be sure you are not gaining height in the front, indicating removing weight from the front axle.

Assuming OK there and it sits level, you should weigh the tongue to be sure it's within the weight carrying spec of the receiver (500 lbs). You can weigh the tongue with a bathroom scale, google will get you instructions on how-2.

It's unusual to NOT need a WD hitch with a travel trailer and an SUV, but it's possible. Check your heights and weights and decide. It's not going to help sway control, and since you don't have sway issues, there's no reason to use one if you don't need one....unless it makes you feel better :B

learn to use it. you are better off with than without it. it will put more weight back to the front wheels so you can safely steer going down the road. I personally would not tow across the street without one.