When I open the tailgate of our new 2016 F-150, the gate won't go completely down. It is stopped by the electric tongue jack. I turned the jack 45 degrees, and most of the times the tail gate still won't go down. Approx 1/4 inch missing.My RV tech tells me he can drill a new pin hole for the pin that holds the ball mount in the hitch receiver tube so that the ball mount will be may 3/4" further out of the receiver. This would allow the tail gate to fully open. He tells me that this will not alter the integrity of the ball mount.Any opinions? (I hope my description is clear enough)Marc

It WILL lower the the weight rating of the ball mount.Reese has a shank with 2 holesBack hole ---------1000# ratingFront hole --------1500# rating

I would call reese. I wouldn't do it.

I would not think twice about it. 3/4 of an inch is not going to make that much difference. I would do it in a heartbeat. I have been a welder and fabricator all of my life. Just my opinion.

What are the current specs on your shank? 1000# tongue weight? My concern with drilling a hole would be if the shank was designed for an added hole? As you can see, the Reese is derated by 33% to use the second hole. All things being equal, If your shank is rated at 1000#, after that second hole is drilled, you could be limited to less than 700# of tongue weight. Can you live with that?

Drilling a hole | Good Sam Community

19 Replies

marcarolle
Explorer
Jul 08, 2016
You're right JOHNTANK. It's late here in the Eastern part of the continent...time to stop thinking and go to bed. Thanks for your comment!
johntank
Explorer
Jul 08, 2016
marcarolle wrote:
I just realized why some members asked if I am using a WDH! If I drill a hole at - say 1 inch from the original one on the shank - I will have to move the torsion bars brackets bolted to the trailer's tongue. That means more work and more adjustments.

Also, in my original post I said I turned the electric jack 45 degrees. I meant 90 degrees.

I guess I'm back to square one. :-(

Why??? Are they not connect to the hitch head on the TV side? Moving to hole on the shank should not effect them.
marcarolle
Explorer
Jul 08, 2016
I just realized why some members asked if I am using a WDH! If I drill a hole at - say 1 inch from the original one on the shank - I will have to move the torsion bars brackets bolted to the trailer's tongue. That means more work and more adjustments.

Also, in my original post I said I turned the electric jack 45 degrees. I meant 90 degrees.

I guess I'm back to square one. :-(
SoCalDesertRid1
Explorer II
Jul 08, 2016
If it's a solid bar shank (not hollow tube), and is long enough behind the existing hole that the shank will still be fully inserted into the receiver tube when positioned at the new hole, and you're not fully maxing out the tongue weight already, I would drill the hole. However, I would drill it about 1-1/2" from center of existing hole.

Put it in a drill press and drill the hole in 3 successively larger steps, using plenty of cutting oil (I use auto tranny fluid).
Sport45
Explorer II
Jul 08, 2016
Moving the pin 3/4" isn't going to leave a lot of metal between the new hole and the old one.

I'd try to move the tongue jack first.
marcarolle
Explorer
Jul 08, 2016
Thanks all for your input.

Just to clarify a few questions:

1. Yes I'm using a WDH and an anti-sway
2. My intention is to have the hole drilled in the shank,not in the hitch receiver tube.
3. My RV tech works on his own. He's not affiliated with a dealership.
4. The shank is the common steel one. Not the I-beam type.

Thanks guys. This is very informative for me.
hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Jul 07, 2016
go to etrailer.com and look at standard, long, extra long and super extra long shank drawbars.

I don't recall you indicating a WDH (weight distributing hitch) but if so, they have them for those too.
3oaks
Explorer
Jul 07, 2016
JnJnKatiebug wrote:
I would not think twice about it. 3/4 of an inch is not going to make that much difference. I would do it in a heartbeat. I have been a welder and fabricator all of my life. Just my opinion.
I agree. And a milling machine is not necessary, a capable drill press and someone who actually knows what they are doing is all that is required.
ktosv
Explorer
Jul 07, 2016
Lynnmor wrote:
I missed the fact that the dealer wanted to drill the extra hole in the receiver, not the shank. The receiver should not be drilled.

Yes, please confirm if you are having a hole drilled into the shank/ball mount or the receiver/hitch that is on the truck.

If drilling the receiver/hitch, I don't think there is anyway I would do that.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Jul 07, 2016
I missed the fact that the dealer wanted to drill the extra hole in the receiver, not the shank. The receiver should not be drilled. A shank that is made of solid steel is OK. Some shanks have an I- beam shape, I wouldn't add holes to those.

I own a machine shop, believe me, you will never get the steel hot enough to cause harm. With a milling machine, the hole can be proper centered and sized, with a drill press or hand drilling, not so much.