Dual cam vs friction bar
Hi, I took the trailer out this weekend and had a wonderful drive at 60-65 mph. No sway at all. I have a Reese round bar setup with 1000 bars. I had a Tractor trailer pass me at 80-85, it pushed me a...
Forum Discussion
The following is MY opinion and MY personal experience with both designs. (Seems I have written a long response, many apologies)
The BEST sway control is a properly loaded and designed trailer, a Proper Tow Vehicle, and a properly set up and matched WD hitch. Sway control devices are supplemental and should NOT be used to correct a sway problem in the design.
Dual Cam Sway Control is a good design. So is Friction sway control .... when used appropriately (Meaning if you are over 25 ft you use TWO bars, no exceptions. If you are over 25 ft and do not use two bars then its not a fair comparison, DC is superior in this instance because the Single bar is being used outside its design parementer)
In my experience DC and Friction bars are on par with each other within their design parameters. I presently own both and found no difference between Dual Cam and Dual Friction sway bars as far as seat of the pants towing is concerned. I mean, no sway is no sway.. no wiggle from passing vehicles is no wiggle.
Hooking up is a little bit longer with Dual Friction bars, so dual cam wins there... by about 60 seconds.
The BIGGIE for me is that if I get in a bind with friction bars, I can just take them off. (tight maneuvering, etc.) If you get in a bind with Dual Cam you can grenade your WD hitch.
Now, I am NOT fear mongering or spewing some regurgitated garbage, I personally experienced a hitch failure while using Dual Cam. A Dual Cam hitch must be set up 100% correctly as to prevent binding.
I personally choose to run Dual Friction bars.
Here are some additional reasons why I choose not to run DC.
1) The WD bars are NOT attached to the Trailer with a DC. You can lose a WD bar by turning too tight and pulling the bar out of the cam. Rare, yes.. but it does happen.
2) Any weakness in the hitch will be exposed by the Dual-Cam in SPECTACULAR fashion.
3) If you lose WD you also lose sway control
4) Not every dealer handles, stocks, or understands Dual Cam Sway Control... this is a biggie if you have a malfunction on the road.
Friction Sway Control strengths
1) Effective
2) low cost
3) Replacement parts are available at every RV dealer in America and Canada
4) Removable
5) Not dependent on WD At all. (If you have a WD hitch failure, chances are you can still run your friction control)
Now the Friction bars are not without their weaknesses
1) The need periodic adjustment as the brake material wears down (quarter turn of the tension bolt occasionally)
2) They need periodic cleaning with a wire brush
3) They exert a constant level of tension, they are not reactive or proactive. They are just what they are, a dampener and a device to significantly increase the stiffness between the hitch head and the trailer coupler.
Now, I said that DC is a good design, I stand by that. I also stand by the statement that a friction sway control is a good design.
OP, your mileage will vary, and I hope that you gained a little insight from my experience.
Jeremiah
The BEST sway control is a properly loaded and designed trailer, a Proper Tow Vehicle, and a properly set up and matched WD hitch. Sway control devices are supplemental and should NOT be used to correct a sway problem in the design.
Dual Cam Sway Control is a good design. So is Friction sway control .... when used appropriately (Meaning if you are over 25 ft you use TWO bars, no exceptions. If you are over 25 ft and do not use two bars then its not a fair comparison, DC is superior in this instance because the Single bar is being used outside its design parementer)
In my experience DC and Friction bars are on par with each other within their design parameters. I presently own both and found no difference between Dual Cam and Dual Friction sway bars as far as seat of the pants towing is concerned. I mean, no sway is no sway.. no wiggle from passing vehicles is no wiggle.
Hooking up is a little bit longer with Dual Friction bars, so dual cam wins there... by about 60 seconds.
The BIGGIE for me is that if I get in a bind with friction bars, I can just take them off. (tight maneuvering, etc.) If you get in a bind with Dual Cam you can grenade your WD hitch.
Now, I am NOT fear mongering or spewing some regurgitated garbage, I personally experienced a hitch failure while using Dual Cam. A Dual Cam hitch must be set up 100% correctly as to prevent binding.
I personally choose to run Dual Friction bars.
Here are some additional reasons why I choose not to run DC.
1) The WD bars are NOT attached to the Trailer with a DC. You can lose a WD bar by turning too tight and pulling the bar out of the cam. Rare, yes.. but it does happen.
2) Any weakness in the hitch will be exposed by the Dual-Cam in SPECTACULAR fashion.
3) If you lose WD you also lose sway control
4) Not every dealer handles, stocks, or understands Dual Cam Sway Control... this is a biggie if you have a malfunction on the road.
Friction Sway Control strengths
1) Effective
2) low cost
3) Replacement parts are available at every RV dealer in America and Canada
4) Removable
5) Not dependent on WD At all. (If you have a WD hitch failure, chances are you can still run your friction control)
Now the Friction bars are not without their weaknesses
1) The need periodic adjustment as the brake material wears down (quarter turn of the tension bolt occasionally)
2) They need periodic cleaning with a wire brush
3) They exert a constant level of tension, they are not reactive or proactive. They are just what they are, a dampener and a device to significantly increase the stiffness between the hitch head and the trailer coupler.
Now, I said that DC is a good design, I stand by that. I also stand by the statement that a friction sway control is a good design.
OP, your mileage will vary, and I hope that you gained a little insight from my experience.
Jeremiah
