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lastword's avatar
lastword
Explorer
Mar 26, 2019

Ductless AC instead of roof mounted AC

In addition to my roof repairs I am replacing the AC unit on my trailer.
Does anyone have any experience with the Mini Split Ductless AC Heat Pump reliability on an RV? I have seen installs on youtube and they all claim no problems with it. I worry about the bouncing going down the road causing a freon leak, But when I look at the construction of both roof and ductless I don't see significant difference in the build quality or design. So I'm thinking there should be no problem.
Planning to mount the outdoor unit and a generator to a welded platform on the rear of the camper and install a small brush guard and backup camera, and make sure the line-set is insulated and supported properly.
The unit I am planning to use ($460.00 delivered).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12000-BTU-15-SEER-110V-Mini-Split-Confort-System-Ductless-AC-Heat-Pump-110V/303081116734

Says its good to 600 square ft, I have a little over 200, heating and cooling.
I have worked in manufacturing and installed and maintained many AC units. I have all the tools vacuum pump and hoses/gauges.

Thoughts? Sanity Check!
  • I've seen folks use mini splits I "tiny homes" and converted cargo trailers with good results
  • lastword wrote:
    Mini split Update

    Overall I am quite happy with the performance of the Mini split


    Would love to see a photographic overview of the installation.
  • Photos photos photos otherwise this does not make as much sense.

    Glad it all worked. I did a lot of research on alternatives to the roof unit.

    For the amount you spent on this device, why did you not just put on a roof AC and be done with it? A roof unit is built for the road and you are experimenting as if a house unit will hold up over the years of driving…
    Ebay finds are maybe $600-800 or a used one around 400. Hint, I have a used Penguin that is perfect in every way except wont run off a 2200 gen.
  • The torque values should be in the installation manual. Those flare fittings are the weak point at this time. There is a whole industry trying to produce an easy to use, reliable tool that will consistently produce a non leaking flare. If it was leaking, and you just tightened it down, it's probably going to leak again at some point.....
  • As far as leaking flared joints, 45 degree conical copper washers have been used for years to seal between leaking 45 degree fittings. Several years ago an a/c auto shop installed 2 in the a/c lines in a vehicle I owned to stop leaks at the 45 degree joints. I and the next owner who is a friend never had another a/c leak.
  • I've used the copper washers mentioned above, and never a leak again in over 20-years.
  • Be careful messing around with the fittings while the unit is running, R410a systems can have operating pressures above 450psi.

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