Electric brakes??
First off, my apologies if I posted this in the wrong section. Can anyone offer a good reading or video source for electric brake adjustment basics? I admittedly know nothing about them, and have o...
Forum Discussion
IMHO... :B
There is no one best one size fits all, but found & continue to find that
most who have helped are not adjusted well...and sometimes not correct
First, the trailer brakes are normally not adjusted tight enough and
suggest carrying an adjustment spoon no matter which brake controller.
From OEM on board, highly integrated to after market.
Check them at each stop and re-adjust them as needed.
Wiring, first thing is to note that most trailer OEMs only provide a
'just good enough' harness (wire gauge sizing), connectors and run them
in series. Parallel (think spider) is best/better. Second, the harness(s)
all the way back to the TV's controller needs to be in good order.
The TV plug at the receiver some times has an El Cheapo that does NOT
home in well and sometimes too much play to cause intermittent connections
If after market, the TV brake pedal light switch must be adjusted so
that just a tiny amount of foot pressure will turn on that switch.
Plunger types (think door bell button) are tough and becomes intermittent
if too close
My GM OEM brake pedal switch is not adjustable and has one of the smallest
switch points have found to date. Takes about 1/64" movement to turn
on that switch and way before the MC piston even moves
That has the trailer brakes turn on before the TV's turn on (leads the
TV). This is has the whole setup act as one while braking
The controller has two main adjustments and will only comment on them.
The OEM IBC (integrated brake controller) sometimes has several more.
Boost and gain.
One is the min level pre-set and has to do with how the trailer brakes
are sized, setup, work, etc. Think of it as if too low, there is no
braking of significance by the trailer
Other is the ramp the brake controller will follow once it is turned on
Finally, all the above is factored by the sensor that the controller
employs
Some use the TV MC fluid PSI sensor. Some (most after market) uses
an accelerometer to sense the rate of deceleration and will provide
more power to the trailer brakes accordingly...ditto MC fluid PSI
senses...the more PSI...the more power is sent to the trailer brakes
This is why the trailer wiring MUST be top notch, as with poor wiring,
all the power in the world sent back there will be lost to high resistance
These are the basics, IMHO, and key to setting up the TV/Trailer to
brake as 'one'...
There is no one best one size fits all, but found & continue to find that
most who have helped are not adjusted well...and sometimes not correct
First, the trailer brakes are normally not adjusted tight enough and
suggest carrying an adjustment spoon no matter which brake controller.
From OEM on board, highly integrated to after market.
Check them at each stop and re-adjust them as needed.
Wiring, first thing is to note that most trailer OEMs only provide a
'just good enough' harness (wire gauge sizing), connectors and run them
in series. Parallel (think spider) is best/better. Second, the harness(s)
all the way back to the TV's controller needs to be in good order.
The TV plug at the receiver some times has an El Cheapo that does NOT
home in well and sometimes too much play to cause intermittent connections
If after market, the TV brake pedal light switch must be adjusted so
that just a tiny amount of foot pressure will turn on that switch.
Plunger types (think door bell button) are tough and becomes intermittent
if too close
My GM OEM brake pedal switch is not adjustable and has one of the smallest
switch points have found to date. Takes about 1/64" movement to turn
on that switch and way before the MC piston even moves
That has the trailer brakes turn on before the TV's turn on (leads the
TV). This is has the whole setup act as one while braking
The controller has two main adjustments and will only comment on them.
The OEM IBC (integrated brake controller) sometimes has several more.
Boost and gain.
One is the min level pre-set and has to do with how the trailer brakes
are sized, setup, work, etc. Think of it as if too low, there is no
braking of significance by the trailer
Other is the ramp the brake controller will follow once it is turned on
Finally, all the above is factored by the sensor that the controller
employs
Some use the TV MC fluid PSI sensor. Some (most after market) uses
an accelerometer to sense the rate of deceleration and will provide
more power to the trailer brakes accordingly...ditto MC fluid PSI
senses...the more PSI...the more power is sent to the trailer brakes
This is why the trailer wiring MUST be top notch, as with poor wiring,
all the power in the world sent back there will be lost to high resistance
These are the basics, IMHO, and key to setting up the TV/Trailer to
brake as 'one'...
