Electrical input from garage

Your electrical terminology is not up to the grade of an electrician. To answer, yes it can be done. You should seek help for the changeover to 120V service but you probably knew that.

Look at mini breakers if you don’t already have them. If so, you could very likely add the RV outlet and keep the 220 outlet (unless you don’t need it and are using the same wiring and outlet (it sounds like)).
In general, I agree, if asking the question in the manner you did, get an electrician or someone who knows what they’re doing.

If you are trying to get a new electrical service for the heater strip and lighting, MyRed Racer is correct. Just run an extension cord from an existing outlet to the RV and buy a dogbone to adapt the cord to what ever service you have in the trailer. If you already have power to the RV, just plug those things in.

MRR is also offering good advice regarding Moisture Rid or some other absorbent in the trailer. I had to do that at the beach one time.

Absolutely no reason to change breaker.

ScottG wrote:
Yeah, wrong forum but the answer to your question is yes, you can send 120 instead of 220 through the heavy wires without issue. You'll want to change the 220V outlet to a 120V 30A TT receptacle.

That's what I did at my former house. Just used one of the hot legs for my 30 amp rv outlet

Other than the technical side of doing this correctly and being in the wrong sub-forum, what do you have for an RV and how long is it? TTs for ex. are poorly insulated and a heater can end up running non-stop just to keep it at a minimal low temp inside. I installed a permanent 1500 watt heater in our first TT which was only 20' long and it ran continuously and drove our power bill way up.

If you want to heat the interior to reduce the humidity level, why not use a dessicant dryer(s) or electric dehumidifier. If you use an electric heater, you also want to crack open a window and vent so moisture can escape.

For lights, do you mean the 12 volt DC lights running off the converter/battery? If that's all you need, could run an extension cord to an ordinary 15/20 amp receptacle.

Have a friend with some electrical knowledge help you out. Wire it wrong and you can toast your electrical system, or hurt yourself.

Be safe.

Also , not safe to assume heavier wires in 220 . What is the amperage of 220 breaker ? But yes it is simple to switch if wires are heavy enuff . It was common in Fl to run 220 volt shallow pumps on twenty amp wires and breakers .

onthebus wrote:
I have limited space in my garage circuit panel. I need to eliminate a 220 breaker. My question is since 220 is supplied at this time can I replace with 110 ( running through the same power cord) or will this damage something in the electrical system. I would like to run a small heater strip to limit humidity and lights in the winter months.

Short answer yes
Long answer it depends on the cable.

You can possibly gain some panel space by installing a tandem breaker. These allow two single pole circuits in one breaker space.

Giving advice on electricity is a liability.