Equal-i-zer - shank and ball height questions

It would be best if you could get an actual tongue weight as in with a scale, bathroom scale setup or actually raise the tongue with the tongue jack only on the truck scale pad until no weight is on the ball. When you're hitched up sitting on the scale, the leverage of 5' behind the axle is going to take weight off of the front axle and put it on the rear axle. That weight isn't tongue weight. IF, theoretically, you had enough tongue weight to lift the front wheels off the ground, you'd have the entire weight of the truck on the rear axle along with the tongue weight. So the weight removed from the front axle on the truck scale with the trailer hitched needs to be subtracted from the rear axle weight with the trailer hitched.

Thanks everyone for your guidance and assistance.

Longer shank is required for my application. Tailgate will hit ball when lowered, but I'll lock it to prevent me from forgetting (tip from an ORV member).

I will be loading up my TT with gear, water, propane, etc and weighing my TT/TV and see what weights I get. I can't imagine the TT tongue weight being over 1400#, but you never know My current Equalizer hitch is the 1200/12000 model. Called EQ and they said the only difference in the 1200/12000 and 1400/14000 models is the head unit. Trunion bars, brackets, ball, and shank are all the same.

It would be great if all I need is a longer shank. It will be a bummer if I my tongue weight is close/over 1200#.... which will necessitate a new 1400/14000# hitch AND hitch receiver!

Baja Man wrote:
John, did you notice that the Curt 2" I referenced would have been overkill even for the 1700# TW you mentioned? Amazing they can achieve those weights in a 2" receiver....I assumed you needed to go 2.5" receiver for those higher weights. What's all the fuss over the 2.5"?

Hi,

Years ago Putnam came out with their XDR rated 2" receiver. I bought one for my K2500 Suburban. It too had very high rating on a 2" receiver with a 1,700# WD rating. The first on the scene of the higher rated receivers. They ended up going out of business though.

Back then, the largest WD hitch was 1,200#. Then some inched up to 1,400#. Now we can get 1,700# and even 2,000# WD hitches.

The issue with the higher WD shanks is it's rating verses shank size. When I started looking for a 1,700# WD hitch the only shank I could find with a rating that high was in 2 1/2". This was back in 2007. Even today I do not know if you can find a WD shank above 1,500# in 2". That seems to be the limit. After 1,500 they jump to 2 1/2"

So Curt has a 2" receiver rated that high just like Putnam did but I'm not sure you can yet buy a WD hitch shank above 1,500# that will work in it. At least as of today. Maybe someday you can.

They do make dead weight carrying draw bars in 2" that go up to 2,400#. Reese has them Reese draw bars.

And even Curt make draw bars in 2" up to 2,550# TW, but again in weight carrying mode Curt draw bars

So if one wanted to they can use that Curt in weight carrying mode above 1,500# but that is a heck of a dead load back there. That will be one real light front end on the truck.

Curt also makes WD hitches. On their web site the largest WD hitch they make is 1,500# TW in WD mode and on 2". Curt WD hitches

Hope this helps

John

Then on page 21, it says to adjust the ball height to level the pitch of the trailer. I've done enough of these that I would rather do this step up front once rather than go back and redo later. Reese states to start with the ball 1" higher than the coupler to accommodate TV squat. I'm surprised that Equalizer wouldn't suggest the same.
Did you already get a taller shank? This is why I said if it tows well, I'd leave it as is. The equalizer between the front and rear leafs should equalize the load with that little bit of pitch. Our Jayco just happened to have an inverted coupler so I lucked out with our F250's somewhat low receiver.
I'm not an expert, engineer, genius or advisor. Just giving my opinion based on my years of happy camping. I could be as wrong as a screen door on a submarine.

Also, looks like with the added rise/longer shank, my tailgate will hit if opened with hitch installed. This sounds like an accident waiting to happen!!!

Hannibal wrote:

This why you set the ball 1" higher than the coupler of the level trailer on level ground. If your truck settles 2" and the WDH bars bring the rear back up 1", you should be back to level on the trailer. If the tongue weight sits the truck down 4" and the bars bring it back up 2", then set the ball 2" higher than the coupler of the level trailer on level ground.

The EQ manual stated that both truck and trailer needed to both be at same height when beginning set up.

Baja Man wrote:
I have some confusion about leveling.....

I figured out I need additional rise....a shank with additional rise vs the one I have now.

If you start with a truck ball that is at same height as a level trailer coupler (top to top), as soon as you retract coupler jack and put weight on truck, the rear of truck will drop down and front of trailer will also drop down. If weight dist bars spread the load and for trailer to remain level ALL weight would have to be transferred to truck and trailer frame, is this correct?

I know that as soon as I retract coupler jack, all tongue weight is placed on my trucks rear axle and the rear of truck drops down several inches. I would like for my truck to remain as level as possibly... higher in rear if possible. What happens when all of this weight, 1000# plus, is placed on truck.....how is it possible that trailer remains EXACTLY where it was before the jack was ever retracted?

Please excuse my ignorance.
Thanks for your patience and information.

This why you set the ball 1" higher than the coupler of the level trailer on level ground. If your truck settles 2" and the WDH bars bring the rear back up 1", you should be back to level on the trailer. If the tongue weight sits the truck down 4" and the bars bring it back up 2", then set the ball 2" higher than the coupler of the level trailer on level ground.

John, did you notice that the Curt 2" I referenced would have been overkill even for the 1700# TW you mentioned? Amazing they can achieve those weights in a 2" receiver....I assumed you needed to go 2.5" receiver for those higher weights. What's all the fuss over the 2.5"?

I have some confusion about leveling.....

I figured out I need additional rise....a shank with additional rise vs the one I have now.

If you start with a truck ball that is at same height as a level trailer coupler (top to top), as soon as you retract coupler jack and put weight on truck, the rear of truck will drop down and front of trailer will also drop down. If weight dist bars spread the load and for trailer to remain level ALL weight would have to be transferred to truck and trailer frame, is this correct?

I know that as soon as I retract coupler jack, all tongue weight is placed on my trucks rear axle and the rear of truck drops down several inches. I would like for my truck to remain as level as possibly... higher in rear if possible. What happens when all of this weight, 1000# plus, is placed on truck.....how is it possible that trailer remains EXACTLY where it was before the jack was ever retracted?

Please excuse my ignorance.
Thanks for your patience and information.

That Curt receiver is a good one. I just replaced one for a camper friend 2 months ago on her 2500 HD. That receiver is beastly. Curt has a winner there.

And the Curt WD shank is good too. Nice finer resolution in hole settings. Meaning more holes in the shank to get finer height adjustment to level out the camper.

Baja Man wrote:
Perhaps I should purchase the shank first and use with my current receiver hitch. As mentioned, if I load more stuff and reach my GVWR of trailer (9600#) and my tongue weight increases, I can always change to the aforementioned receiver hitch.

Thoughts?

Since you found a good rated 2" receiver, then yes getting a 1,500# tongue rated long WD shank now makes sense. The key being you made a judgement call to not go to 2 1/2" and in your case, I can see this as a good one. I my case I was looking at a 1,700# loaded TW and needed the hitch to do that. In your case, I feel your going to need to be above the 1,200# EQ WD hitch you have now, but I'm not seeing it to have to go much above 1,500#. So go for it to get the shank.

Once you get to the scales you will find out real quick if your 1,200# EQ needs an upgrade to the 1,400# EQ and then the receiver to go along with it.

Hope this helps

John