F150 Towing Sway
Hello, We recently purchased a 33' (overall) TT and tow it behind our 2012 F150. It tows and doesn't jump over 3k RPM going uphill around 55MPH, but the sway is horrible . I have a Husky setup that...
Forum Discussion
Welcome to the forum !
Think you are a victim of the OEM marketing ratings game, but that is
the only way they can and still be competitive with the other OEMs
Guessing you are just under, at, or over your GVWR. Most likely over
What options does your F150 have? AC? 4x4? Automatic? Upgraded interior?
Power seats/windows/doors? Anything else over the 'stripper' model?
All of those options take away from the labeled 'cargo', 'payload' and
the biggie: MTWR...pound for pound.
Then toss in the 'stuff' you load in/on the TV. People, pets, ice chest,
toolchest, spare coolant, etc, etc...and...again takes away from those
ratings pound for pound.
Why think you are near, at, or over your GVWR
It 'can' tow it as you indicated, but not well...nor safely when that
close or over the ratings. Careful on verbiage here. Sales folks are
'right' that it 'can' tow it, as most anything 'can' tow it. How safely
and how long is the real metrics to consider.
Over the ratings won't have the wheels instantly fall off...they will
just sooner than later. Safety is also lessened when over the limits.
But, you have what you have
Most of the advice are adjustments and they do work, but best to have
a goal to understand how these adjustments work
The TV should drop evenly, or as your manual instructs.
The TT should be pointing down or at its highest pointing level.
Trailers 'follow' better that way. Your image says to me, that it is pointing above level.
For that, consider dropping your hitch head a hole on the shank. Then
re-setup the WD system
The adjustments (number of links, head tilt, washers, etc, etc) all
work on getting the WD bars (whether round or trunnion) to have more
purchase (or distance it is able to be preloaded). That is all to have
enough of the tongue loading WD'd to the TV's front axle
There are other factors working against you.
The overall weight or heft of your half ton is on the light side to
manhandle large trailers.
Made worse by the length, which is the lever arm on the TV's pivot (ball)
to the TV's rear axle. The longer either of those lever arms are, the
more effect they have on the stability of the TV
Side wind sail area also plays into that
'P' class tires are soft and weak in sidewall stiffness compared to
the next higher class tire, 'LT' class. Again, you have what you have
to air them up to the max molded in sidewall PSI.
Are these OEM tires and wheels? Lifted?
Another is too light a tongue weight or percentage of actual trailer
weight. Again, best to weigh it axle by axle, fully loaded. That is the
only way to know where you are in reference to the ratings.
Think you are a victim of the OEM marketing ratings game, but that is
the only way they can and still be competitive with the other OEMs
Guessing you are just under, at, or over your GVWR. Most likely over
What options does your F150 have? AC? 4x4? Automatic? Upgraded interior?
Power seats/windows/doors? Anything else over the 'stripper' model?
All of those options take away from the labeled 'cargo', 'payload' and
the biggie: MTWR...pound for pound.
Then toss in the 'stuff' you load in/on the TV. People, pets, ice chest,
toolchest, spare coolant, etc, etc...and...again takes away from those
ratings pound for pound.
Why think you are near, at, or over your GVWR
It 'can' tow it as you indicated, but not well...nor safely when that
close or over the ratings. Careful on verbiage here. Sales folks are
'right' that it 'can' tow it, as most anything 'can' tow it. How safely
and how long is the real metrics to consider.
Over the ratings won't have the wheels instantly fall off...they will
just sooner than later. Safety is also lessened when over the limits.
But, you have what you have
Most of the advice are adjustments and they do work, but best to have
a goal to understand how these adjustments work
The TV should drop evenly, or as your manual instructs.
The TT should be pointing down or at its highest pointing level.
Trailers 'follow' better that way. Your image says to me, that it is pointing above level.
For that, consider dropping your hitch head a hole on the shank. Then
re-setup the WD system
The adjustments (number of links, head tilt, washers, etc, etc) all
work on getting the WD bars (whether round or trunnion) to have more
purchase (or distance it is able to be preloaded). That is all to have
enough of the tongue loading WD'd to the TV's front axle
There are other factors working against you.
The overall weight or heft of your half ton is on the light side to
manhandle large trailers.
Made worse by the length, which is the lever arm on the TV's pivot (ball)
to the TV's rear axle. The longer either of those lever arms are, the
more effect they have on the stability of the TV
Side wind sail area also plays into that
'P' class tires are soft and weak in sidewall stiffness compared to
the next higher class tire, 'LT' class. Again, you have what you have
to air them up to the max molded in sidewall PSI.
Are these OEM tires and wheels? Lifted?
Another is too light a tongue weight or percentage of actual trailer
weight. Again, best to weigh it axle by axle, fully loaded. That is the
only way to know where you are in reference to the ratings.
