fogged windows

Cloud Dancer wrote:

mobilefleet wrote:
I've done 2 of them in a Monaco class A, easy to remove, just take out all the screws on the interior trim ring and use a multitool around the outside to get under the frame (easier than a putty knife and harbor freight sells the tool). Pop out window, put on sawhorses and duct tape the inside pane, then take a center punch and tap glass with hammer and punch and it shatters and sticks to the ductape as it is safety glass. I just removed the inside pane like this and then reinstalled using proflex around the frame. Cost: free

Is this reply explaining the repairing of the fogged window, OR is this simply explaining the removal of one of the glass panes?

He is removing one pane of glass

mobilefleet wrote:
I've done 2 of them in a Monaco class A, easy to remove, just take out all the screws on the interior trim ring and use a multitool around the outside to get under the frame (easier than a putty knife and harbor freight sells the tool). Pop out window, put on sawhorses and duct tape the inside pane, then take a center punch and tap glass with hammer and punch and it shatters and sticks to the ductape as it is safety glass. I just removed the inside pane like this and then reinstalled using proflex around the frame. Cost: free

Is this reply explaining the repairing of the fogged window, OR is this simply explaining the removal of one of the glass panes?

I've done 2 of them in a Monaco class A, easy to remove, just take out all the screws on the interior trim ring and use a multitool around the outside to get under the frame (easier than a putty knife and harbor freight sells the tool). Pop out window, put on sawhorses and duct tape the inside pane, then take a center punch and tap glass with hammer and punch and it shatters and sticks to the ductape as it is safety glass. I just removed the inside pane like this and then reinstalled using proflex around the frame. Cost: free

I too have the dreaded SEGI fogged windows. 2005 Fleetwood.
I am an diehard DIY guy but doing them myself seems too risky for me.
Believe me I thought about it but the risk of a window leak down the road isn't worth it to me.

Sun coast in Hudson isn't THAT expensive in the big picture which is what I plan to do this winter

And it comes with a great warranty.

I just had some windows repaired by Dave and ask the question about how many have used the kit. His answer "not many". He has sold a number of kits just to have the purchaser return them and have him do the work.

I think the problem is, is that most people don't have the facilities to do the work plus it is time consuming, and takes more than one person to get the windows out. He repaired two windows of mine and and one another. Two were small and the other was a large one. I already had the valances down when he got there. He started at 10 and finished up about 4

Thanks for the reply's. I appreciate you taking the time to answer.
However, my question was has anyone done the repairs themselves and/or used the Dave Root glass repair kit.
Thanks
Busyguy

C-Bears wrote:
Until they can produce a true RV light weight sealed window with argon gas between the panes, RV double pane windows are a waste of money in my opinion.

I have installed/replaced hundreds of insulated windows in residences. When you visit one of their factories you understand how they can produce a sealed unit which can be guaranteed for 30 years or more against seal failure.

yep, some of mine in the S&Brick are 38 years old and still fine. most of the ones I had to replace was because of the wooden frames coming apart.
bumpy

Until they can produce a true RV light weight sealed window with argon gas between the panes, RV double pane windows are a waste of money in my opinion.

I have installed/replaced hundreds of insulated windows in residences. When you visit one of their factories you understand how they can produce a sealed unit which can be guaranteed for 30 years or more against seal failure.

I have had 2 Claas A's that had fogged windows.
The REPAIR is very expensive and I just would not do it.

I have also had many Class A's that did NOT have the two pane windows, and my current FW only has one pane windows as well.

My conclusion ... they are NOT necessary , unless you are a full-timer in a northern area.

Solution (?) ... If I became the owner of another unit with this problem ( which is quite likely since I buy-sell a lot ) ... I believe I would remove one of the windows.

This may not be a wise solution for a newer unit with a high value, but on anything less than that .. it seems practical since each window represents $1000 or more, from my investigations in the past.

One other idea might be to drill a syringe sized hole in the top of the inside window, and fill the center with Anti-Fogging fluid. It will leak out the bottom, since that is where the gas disappeared to, but the residual effects may provide temporary clear-ivity !

Caution here ... I was told once that introduction of foreign fluids might just turn the window more black ....

Not easy decisions ... difficult problem unless money is abundant.

Moved from Forum Technical Support