harold1946 wrote:
Hank MI wrote:
I'm sure Dave Root does good work but his DIY kit seems a little overpriced. A 66' roller of spacer, sealant, cleaner, gloves and instructions, $286. A utility knife, extra blades, and gloves are pretty cheap, you probably already have them. A 66' roll of spacer, sealant and guide block for applying the sealer is less than $100, including shipping from DK Hardware Supply.
If you have a link that shows all the materials can be obtained from DK Hardware Supply, please post it.
I am sure many DIY type people would like to have it, along with instructions on how you did it.
The spacer and guide below are for 3/16" Super Spacer. You'll need either 3/16" or 1/4" spacer. Open a slider window and measure the thickness of the double pane unit. If it's 7/16" you'll need 3/16" spacer. The glass panes are 1/8" thick. 1/8" + 1/8" + 3/16" = 7/16". If it measures 1/2" then of course you'll need 1/4" spacer and a 1/4" sealant guide.
66' 3/15" Super SpacerSealant guide for 3/16" spacerSuper Spacer sealanyThe windows on our MH are Excel, you may have a different brand so you'll have to adapt to whatever you have. The window unit is installed from the outside with a metal clamp ring on the inside. Remove all the screws from the inside clamp, leave a couple at the top but loosen them maybe 1/4". From the outside you'll need to pry the window away from the side of the RV. Ours use a rubber bulb seal, yours may have rope caulk. Even with the rubber seals they were stuck to the side pretty good. Once you're sure the unit is free have a helper remove the remaining screws on the inside. CAUTION, these window units are surprisingly heavy, hold the top in so it doesn't tip out on top of you.
Our windows have a one piece frame that wraps around the entire unit. There is a flat bar that holds the ends of the frame together. Once the screws are removed from the bar the frame can spread apart and the dual pane units removed. Use a utility knife to slice the urethane sealer along one of the glass panes. It may take several cuts before you get the blade in between the glass and the old metal spacer. With glass laying flat on a table lift up on the top pane of glass while cutting. By lifting it takes some of the weight off and makes it easier to slice between the spacer and glass.
Once the spacer is removed from both panes use a single edge razor blade scraper to remove the remaining sealer. Clean the glass and see what you have. If the window has been fogged for a long time the glass may be etched, you'll never get it clear again. Use some 1500 - 2000 grit wet-dry paper and lightly remove the white fog. If that doesn't do it you can use your razor scraper and scrape the white off. It won't all come off but you can make it better. Then you can decide if it's good enough or need new glass. If you need new glass these guys can make anything you need. I called and talked to Scott Harkey, he was quite helpful. They may already have a template for the glass you need in their database.
RVG... end of part one.