Fogged Windows

harold1946 wrote:

Hank MI wrote:
I'm sure Dave Root does good work but his DIY kit seems a little overpriced. A 66' roller of spacer, sealant, cleaner, gloves and instructions, $286. A utility knife, extra blades, and gloves are pretty cheap, you probably already have them. A 66' roll of spacer, sealant and guide block for applying the sealer is less than $100, including shipping from DK Hardware Supply.

If you have a link that shows all the materials can be obtained from DK Hardware Supply, please post it.
I am sure many DIY type people would like to have it, along with instructions on how you did it.

...part two.

Now you should be ready to rebuild the thermopane unit. The Super Spacer has one edge with a thin aluminum foil on it. That edge goes towards the outside edge of the glass. The spacer has adhesive on 2 sides to stick it to the glass. The spacer needs to be inset at least 3/16" from the edge to allow room for the sealant. It as a thin plastic strip covering the adhesive, peel it off as you lay it along the edge. I pushed the glass against a straight block and used a short piece of spacer to get the 3/16" gap from the edge. If you're tackling the job yourself I'm sure you're capable of applying the spacer and putting the 2 panes together.

Next you use the sealant guide and caulk gun to apply the sealant around the edge. You can see when enough sealant is pushed in against the spacer to fill any gaps. I used a paper towel to run around the edge and smooth the sealant and remove any excess. Once it's dried you can use your razor scraper to remove any sealant from the outside of the glass. A good quality caulk gun is worth the investment. Your hands will get pretty tired trying to squeeze out the sealant with a $3 caulk gun. Two tubes of sealant should do one 66' roll of 3/16" spacer. Might need 3 if you're using 1/4" spacer.

That's about it. The spacer has desiccant in the foam to remove any moisture inside the windows. You'll want to keep it sealed up tight when not using it. It's not too bad a job, I'm retired and have the time so what the heck. Hardest part was removing the rail on the end of the sliding units. It's held on with a double sided adhesive tape, similar to 3M molding tape. I used a heat gun and slowly cut it and pry it off the edge of the glass. We have 7 units that need repair, Around $500 including some new glass, I'm sure it would be at least $3000 to have it done. Our MH is a 94 Bounder, not worth investing $3000 in it.