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pcuddeback's avatar
pcuddeback
Explorer
Oct 20, 2014

Ford F-350 6.7 V8 Diesel 4WD SRW CC, LB and Towing Capacity

Forgive the long-winded post, but we are desperate to get some solid answers!

We just purchased our 2014 tow vehicle in May. We want to buy a 5th Wheel and go full-time RVing in about a year’s time. (Yes, I know, we should have done the purchasing the other way around…but, alas, we didn’t – so we’re stuck)

The Towing Capacity posted by Ford says we can tow a loaded trailer at a weight of 15,900 lbs . Boy, did we get a rude awakening when reading the Trailer Life Towing Guide and using some of the on-line calculators. We are actually angry that Ford would so blatantly misinform its customers!

Even the calculators and Trailer Life have different recommended tow weights … one says 9000 lbs and another says about 11,000 lbs. You can’t get a decent full-time rig with “all-season” features even close to that weight.

We are at our wits end and don’t know what to do – Just purchased the truck in May, so trading it in is not an affordable option. Anybody know something we don’t and have options to suggest?

We realize that the rear-axle load is the most critical part of the weight limits ….
QUESTIONS:
We’ve been told that we can put air bags in rear wheel wells to help overcome any sagging issues.
What about drum brakes vs disk brakes on the trailer? Is one better than the other as far as stopping capabilities?
Are wider tires an important factor in stopping?
What is the most critical factor in determining towing capacity? If stopping is the most critical factor then disk brakes on trailer should be a factor in determining the weight of 5vr that one can pull, correct?
Ford has the built in engine brake …Is adding after-market Jake Brake to this Ford F350 effective?

In other words, are there other considerations and options that would increase our towing capacity?
Here are our numbers:
GCWR 23,500
GVWR 11,500
GAWR-Front 6,000 actual: 5200 weighed on scale
GAWR-Rear 7,000 actual: 3820 weighed on scale
GVW 9,020 Weighed at scale with passengers, fuel, & cargo (but no 5th wheel hitch)
Max Tow Rating 15,900


Here are our calculations for a 14,500 lb loaded 5th Wheel:
GCWR 23,500
- GVWR 11,500
12,000 3,900 lbs less than quoted towing ability (15,900 lbs)


GCWR 23,500
-GVW 9,020 Actual truck weight GVW
14,480 1420 lbs less than quoted towing ability (15,900 lbs)

Pin wt. for 14,500 lb 5ver 2,900 Pin Wt for trailer adds 2900 lbs to back of truck
14500 x 20%
+ Truck Wt 9,020
11,920 420 lbs OVER truck's GVWR of 11,500 lbs
and just 312 lbs UNDER rear-axle limit of 7000 lbs
2900 + 3788= 6688 pin Wt + rear axle wt

18 Replies

  • Generally speaking, we have the same truck, except mine is a 2012. I don't think Ford changed the 6.7 until 2015.

    Our current FW is a Montana. It is 39'2" long, has two slides on the door side and a super slide on the non-door side. The side-by-side washer/dryer is in a hallway closet, has the larger frig, etc. If you go through a 3725RL I suspect you will agree you can live in it full time.

    I take my combination across the scales once a year. I also have taken my truck, fully loaded, across the scales.

    The fifth wheel max tow for my truck is listed by Ford as 16,400, with a payload of 4,440 pounds. My truck has the optional 11,300 GVWR package.

    The 3725RL has a listed dry weight of 12,892, with a hitch weight of 2,815. However, when you add the weight of the washer/dryer, Travler DirectRV dish, clothing, food, misc. equipment, actual weight goes to 14,900.

    My pin weight is approaching 3,500 pounds. There are different ways to crunch these numbers and other factors, such as what load capacity are your TV tires rated for, or what load capacity are you FW tires rated for.

    I have changed my stock tires on my truck and I had Goodyear G614 tires installed on the FW prior to taking delivery.

    I did install Firestone bags on my truck but only to level out when hooked up. It accomplished that plus I feel it cushions the ride some. It does not add load capacity or make your truck into a dually.

    I know this is a long post, but I wanted to share some of the numbers with you since our trucks are similar. I am very careful about adding weight to my FW and I think I am about maxed out on tow capacity.
  • op wrote:
    QUESTIONS:
    We’ve been told that we can put air bags in rear wheel wells to help overcome any sagging issues.

    Correct however the bags can be added anytime. Its possible your trucks may not need them.

    What about drum brakes vs disk brakes on the trailer? Is one better than the other as far as stopping capabilities?

    IMO its not that big of a deal. I've towed GN trailer up to 22k GVWR with drum brakes. No issues.

    Are wider tires an important factor in stopping?

    IMO ...no, as wide tires can slip quicker in a wet road condition. Having hauled for a living I'm not a fan of wide base tires on a truck and especially a trailer.

    What is the most critical factor in determining towing capacity? If stopping is the most critical factor then disk brakes on trailer should be a factor in determining the weight of 5vr that one can pull, correct?

    I wouldn't say its the most critical but trailers brake sizes are determined by the size of the axle ie;
    tandem 7k axles = 14000 lbs of braking performance regardless of type of brakes.

    Ford has the built in engine brake …Is adding after-market Jake Brake to this Ford F350 effective?

    Ford doesn't use a engine brake for the 6.7 in the LDTs but rather they use the VVT (variable vane turbo technology). The turbo acts as the exhaust brake.
    No one makes a engine brake for the 6.7 diesel. Google engine brake vs exhaust brake and you will see there is a big difference.

    In other words, are there other considerations and options that would increase our towing capacity?

    Ford says the truck can tow a 15900 lb trailer. The truck sure won't have any issue pulling a 15900 lb trailer but as you mention it will be limited by the 7000 RAWR.
    You have a very heavy 3820 rear unladin. Thats heavier than most DRW trucks. Anyhow ...7000 RAWR minus 3820 leaves your truck with 3180 lb left for a max payload.

    Fords published tow rating aren't just for us folks that want to pull a 5th wheel "RV" trailer that may have a 20 percent pin weight. Ford says for GN and 5th wheel trailers. This includes all trailer types ...not just a camper.
  • rhagfo's avatar
    rhagfo
    Explorer III
    Winged One wrote:
    You can "pull" anything. The problem is what can you "carry".

    You have a GVWR of 11,500 and a actual weight of 9,020. Thus your limited to an additional 2,450 lbs. Figuring 200 lbs for a hitch (more or less) that leaves you with 2,250 lbs of carrying capacity.

    2,250/.20 (pin weight loaded, generally) gives you a 5th of 11,250. If you don't heavily load the trailer, look for one with a lower than 20% pin weight, you should be able to go 12,000 GVWR on the trailer.

    At least, that is how the figures work out. The high towing weight is based on an XL. And all the company's do this. Makes them crow about numbers you will never actually be able to use.

    MFL wrote:
    Your figures are right. You will still be under the rawr, after adding another 200#s for the hitch.

    You are going to be over the gvwr of the truck, with a FW actual loaded weight of 14,500. IMO, being a little over gvwr, on this late model 350 will not be a big issue.

    You are right to stay within the 7,000# rawr, and of course, the tire rating, which should be more than 7,000.

    The Ford oem brake contoller works really nice, and the transmission will help with braking too.

    Old-Biscuit gave good advice. Your truck is very capable, as is. You will have the option of air bags, to level the load, if needed.

    Hope you find a nice FW, to match up with a great truck!

    Jerry

    Two different thought on how to calculate what you can carry and pull with that F350 SRW, you are at the mercy of the SRW and tire ratings.

    While the decision is your on how to proceed, I will tell you I am over my GVWR by a ways, BUT under my GAWRs.

    I am not unaware of weights, but trusted my truck to tell me if it was over weight! :S

    Before signing the papers on our 05 Copper Canyon (Dry 9,860#, GVWR 12,320# and currently at 11,000#)we hooked it up to the truck and lifted the landing gear! We truck was still better than level dropped about 1.5" with the load. OK Let's go sign truck is good!!!

    Well I got a very big surprise the first time we hit the scales, on one of the first trips to the coast hit a scale house 70 miles from home, so down about 6 gals of fuel, and well over GVWR, but well with in axle and tire ratings. Tow and drives great, not a suggestion, just where we sit, Great 5er, great TV, just over GVWR, have close to 700# to spare on rear axle rating and close to 1,400# of tire rating to spare. This is our rig, and some of the State Highway we drive on, at 55 to 60 mph. This is the main supply route to the North Coast area, and not uncommon to pass a semi going 60+ going the other direction!! Good luck on the hunt.





  • For SRW pickups its almost always the GVWR that's the limiting factor, GVWR - actual truck weight w/ fuel, travel stuff & passengers = max pin weight
    The max towing capacity and max cargo capacity are just fluffed up marketing numbers. all the mfg play the same game, not just Ford.
    Nothing you do will change the official ratings, but adding air bags, upgrading the load rating of tires and switching to an air pin box are all things that help increase your comfort level. But step 1 is find a slightly smaller/lighter 5'er
  • I don't know what you are reading but it isn't the ford 5th wheel towing specs. Forget about the personal opinions and mags and read the ford published towing specs.

    Ford Towing Specs
  • Your figures are right. You will still be under the rawr, after adding another 200#s for the hitch.

    You are going to be over the gvwr of the truck, with a FW actual loaded weight of 14,500. IMO, being a little over gvwr, on this late model 350 will not be a big issue.

    You are right to stay within the 7,000# rawr, and of course, the tire rating, which should be more than 7,000.

    The Ford oem brake contoller works really nice, and the transmission will help with braking too.

    Old-Biscuit gave good advice. Your truck is very capable, as is. You will have the option of air bags, to level the load, if needed.

    Hope you find a nice FW, to match up with a great truck!

    Jerry
  • You can "pull" anything. The problem is what can you "carry".

    You have a GVWR of 11,500 and a actual weight of 9,020. Thus your limited to an additional 2,450 lbs. Figuring 200 lbs for a hitch (more or less) that leaves you with 2,250 lbs of carrying capacity.

    2,250/.20 (pin weight loaded, generally) gives you a 5th of 11,250. If you don't heavily load the trailer, look for one with a lower than 20% pin weight, you should be able to go 12,000 GVWR on the trailer.

    At least, that is how the figures work out. The high towing weight is based on an XL. And all the company's do this. Makes them crow about numbers you will never actually be able to use.
  • Well......mfg. have published MAX TOW Ratings that can be achieved when the 'fine print' is taken into account.


    Yet the 'fine print' is rarely read or understood
    *Maximum trailer weights in pounds for properly equipped vehicles with no cargo
    *Maximum Loaded Trailer Weight assumes a towing vehicle with any mandatory options, no cargo,
    tongue load of 10-15 (conventional trailer) or king pin weight of 15-25% (fifth-wheel trailer),
    and driver only (150 pounds).
    *May vary depending on model, trim and/or powertrain.
    *Weight of additional options, passengers, cargo and hitch must be deducted from this weight.


    You have a very capable towing machine.
    Look for a 5vr with a GVWR of 15K with a floorlan you like and buy it.
    You will be fine.

    Shouldn't need air bags........worry about that AFTER you get 5vr and have it set up.
    Level towing and good bedrail to 5vr overhang clearance.

    Disc brakes...great upgrade and can't compare drums to them..but drums work very well.

    After market exhaust brake...not needed. Your OEM works great

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