Friction sway to Blue Ox sway Pro

I have a BlueOx and it works great on my 35ft TT.

A buddy has the Blue Ox Pro and loves it. Looks like a nice setup and works great for him. Hi has 35ft TT.

My first TT had a Reese WDH and single friction bar for sway. It worked well for a small 20’ TT. My next TT was a Jayco Eagle 256RKS with a GVW of 7350#. I had a Reese Dual Cam WDH. The setup was great and the hitch worked flawlessly, never had an issue with sway, but it was noisy. There was also the grease issue getting all over.

Last fall I purchased a 2015 Jayco Eagle with GVW of 9250#. I considered moving the Reese Dual Cam, but I did not want to drill into the frame to attach the cam assemblies. I did some research and settled on the Blue Ox Sway Pro for few reasons, 1-no drilling of frame was required, 2-Quiet no noise, 3-sealed lubrication points virtually grease free. So far I have towed a few times with the Blue Ox Pro and I very happy, not to say the other WDHs I had were bad.

They all did the job and did it well.

Just remembered...IMHO...there is also a push/pull from the bars being
bent (push, the + portion of the graph) more and 'unbent' (pull, the - portion
of the graph) more, but no time to really noodle that...yet

Key to that, IMHO, is the chain mechanism. The amount of 'swing' (that
imparts that push/pull) is way less than other brands with longer
chains to the pivot point) and think could increase that push/pull
even more if no chain, but a solid bar of some design

What all this means is that the Blue Ox Sway Pro system does have resistance
to sway...hence sway control built in as part of its design

My next setup WILL be a Blue Ox Sway Pro

BlueOxSwayPro BlueOx (my crib notes for future search)

I highly recommend a WDH with integrated sway control. The Equal-iz-er 4pt, Reese Strait Line, and BLueox Swaypro are all similarly effective with happy owners. However, I would start at a scale for $15 before spending $600 on something that you may not need. 3 passes can tell you what your TW is, how well your WDH is adjusted, and where you stand with respect to all your tow vehicle's ratings.

Oh, if you have a Reese, you may be able to upgrade to the dual cam system for a lot less, like $250-300 I believe.

Without your setup specifications, all is out of context and just adjusting
the dials/knobs/etc...plus tossing in parts changes without really
knowing what the heck...

What are your:

• TV GVWR
• TV FGAWR
• TV RGAWR
• TV GCWR
• Trailer GVWR
• Trailer GAWR
• Trailer length
• Trailer actual weight
• Trailer actual tongue weight

Mod's to the TV?

• Lifted and whether suspension or body
• Tires/wheels
• etc

A sideview picture, on level ground would help tons and is part of
what others are saying that the setup is key, along with the properly
sized components. Orientation of the setup, on level ground, is to
have the TV drop as per the manual and the trailer level at it's highest
pointing...I like pointed slightly down and that has solved several
I've adjusted (only thing done) and many here on these forums

There is anti-sway built in via the architecture of how the bars provide
resistance to both directions of swing. Discussed here:
Eating Crow - the "new" Blue Ox Sway Pro Pg3

Here is the graph Ron Gratz made up, but you'll need to read the
accompanying text to get the total gist...
BlueOxGraph BlueOxForceGraph ForceGraph

I was towing trailers before there were friction sway bars. As mentioned, a proper set doesn't sway.

I have a Sway Pro because its high quality, easy, clean, and effective. Money well spent.

As others have said recheck your weights and setup. But also you need two of those friction sway control devices when towing over 26'. As mentioned it shouldn't sway period unless something abnormal happens.

I'd have to agree with Terryallan - a properly loaded trailer shouldn't sway under normal circumstances even without the benefit of sway control ... if it does, correct that first. Start by weighing the trailer as it would normally be for camping, measure it's gross tongue weight, and ensure you're somewhere in the 13% - 14% range. Assuming your satisfied with ALL the other aspects of your towing setup - e.g. TV suspension, tires, etc - only then should you be considering upgrading your WD system. I too had planned to tow my latest trailer with a Blue Ox Sway Pro but at the time of purchase I was gifted a simple trunnion bar Reese WD system and for this size of trailer it works just fine, even without an additional sway bar. Granted, it's a much shorter, lighter trailer and had it been larger I would certainly have gone ahead with the Sway Pro BUT only after I had set the trailer up correctly so it wouldn't sway in the first place under normal conditions.

You really should find out WHY it is swaying, and fix it. A properly setup TT should NOT sway in normal driving, even without sway control. So you should check your setup, your TV tires, Your tongue weight, and get the sway gone. THEN, and only then should you add sway control.

Sway control is NOT designed to allow you to keep the trailer under control. It is only to help control sway once it is induced during an emergency maneuvering event. Dodging, a deer, of accident. Using it to allow you to control the TT in normal driving is very dangerous. At some point the sway could come out from under the sway control band aid, and bite you.

My TT is 31'. Towed by a 154" WB F150. I have NO sway. I have even forgotten to install the sway bar, and still have no sway, even when being passed by the big trucks. If you are swaying. something is wrong.