Fridge only works on 120AC

I’m pretty sure I’m not replacing or fixing the fridge at this point. A new fridge is about 2k Canadian and I agree that fixing a 28 year old fridge is possibly foolish. I think it’s going to be the ole cooler or 120v beer fridge show from now on. Thanks all for your input. Cheers!

Our current refrigerator has to have 12 volts to power the control panel and direct spark to light the flame. Our last TT (2016 Wolf Pup) did not need power to operate on propane because you just turned on the lp and pushed a button to get the piezo sparker to ignite the gas and then you decided what flame level you needed for the current ambient temp. I liked the old one because you didn't need power but I like the fact that my food doesn't freeze. Both are nice for long duration camping and we REALLY like to eat well.

Bipeflier wrote:
Bet your new frig works better. Your old one is done. Either a replacement of the cooling unit or replace the entire frig. I suggest complete replacement as the newer ones are better insulated and are fully automatic. Of course, a residential type is also an option if you never camp without 120 VAC.

Boy, I'm not sure the new ones are better. Maybe some of them but, I've known people that have the style where there is no adjustment except sliding the thing up and down on the cooling coils. My brother even has one of them. It doesn't work worth a ****. We have tried everything and no luck. He has given up and packs all his food into coolers with ice.

Bet your new frig works better. Your old one is done. Either a replacement of the cooling unit or replace the entire frig. I suggest complete replacement as the newer ones are better insulated and are fully automatic. Of course, a residential type is also an option if you never camp without 120 VAC.

Well Biscuit it seems I have another issue so the fuel supply question will have to wait. I opened the fridge when I got home and got blasted in the face with ammonia. It appears I sprung a leak in the evaporator over winter...thank you -40C.

I'll have to look at the make/model when I get home from work and get back to you.
The flame on mine is definitely not as strong as the one in your picture so it may in fact be a fuel supply issue.

I'll check the pressure and the orifice and let you know what I find. Thanks for your response!

What brand/model is first question?

LP System needs to be 11"WC for proper flame temp.

No pilot flame on fridge....flame IS the main flame and should be strong/steady/BLUE and just reach up inside the flue opening

Dirty rusted burner
Dirty orifice (soak in alcohol then blow on it....NO POKING thru hole/NO High pressure AIR)


Good flame.....correct system pressure, clean burner/orifice etc