Forum Discussion
NRALIFR
Oct 14, 2018Explorer
I have a shallow truck-bed tool box that was given to me several years ago. I turned it into a front-hitch storage box that I’ve used to haul gear that I don’t want inside the truck or camper on three trucks now. It’s been through several revisions and upgrades, and I think I’m on revision seven or eight now. I’ve used it on three trucks, and it hasn’t caused any problems at all.
I discovered very quickly I needed some reminders that it was out there because I can’t see any of it from the drivers seat. I put some fiberglass reflector rods on it first (above), then later bought some Bores brand bumper guides like the big trucks have (below). Coincidentally, the ones Bores make for the Ford F450’s were the straightest ones they had, and were exactly what I needed. The bumper guides have little lights on top that I’ve connected to the running lights.
Next, I needed some ditch lights on the front of the box to help out when I’m trying to find a turn I need to take at night.........driving down an unlit road...........with no moon.....(really, really dark!). I bought some Hella driving lights, which were great until one of them took a rock and I found out that a replacement lens was going to cost nearly as much as the pair cost originally.
So, I bought some LED lights that cost less than the replacement lens was going to cost.
There were a few other little tweeks and adjustments along the way that required some cutting and welding. The first version was a fixed height, but I worried that it might cause a clearance problem for me someday, so I bought a pintle hitch mount for a 2” receiver with a lot of up-down adjustability and had a matching plate welded on the rack that carries the tool box. Now I can move it up about 8” if needed. It doesn’t seem to affect the engine or transmission cooling at all.
Two turnbuckles keep the box rock steady.
I use the box to carry a Webber grill, a Yamaha 1000 generator, a roll-up table, and a few other little things. The only problem has been that it’s a few inches too short for the generator, so I have to lean it over at an angle for the lid to shut. I have to make sure that the gas cap is on tight, the vent closed, the fuel shut off, and the carburetor side is facing up. I decided it’s time to fix that issue, so I started looking for some way to put a “bump” on the top so the Yamaha can sit up straight. Plan B is to drop a section of the bottom, but I’d have to place it to the left or right of center since the hitch tube is right in the middle. I haven’t decided which way to go yet.
I started looking for some type of aluminum pan, tray or box that I could use. I eventually discovered that some commercial cake pans are made exactly like I wanted, and would be cheaper than having something custom made. I found a pan that’s 12”x18”x3” with 90 degree sides, square welded corner seams, a flat lip around the top edge rather than rolled, and made of heavy aluminum.
So now I just need to cut a hole in the box and rivet it in place, then my generator will be able to stand up straight in the box.
:):)
I discovered very quickly I needed some reminders that it was out there because I can’t see any of it from the drivers seat. I put some fiberglass reflector rods on it first (above), then later bought some Bores brand bumper guides like the big trucks have (below). Coincidentally, the ones Bores make for the Ford F450’s were the straightest ones they had, and were exactly what I needed. The bumper guides have little lights on top that I’ve connected to the running lights.
Next, I needed some ditch lights on the front of the box to help out when I’m trying to find a turn I need to take at night.........driving down an unlit road...........with no moon.....(really, really dark!). I bought some Hella driving lights, which were great until one of them took a rock and I found out that a replacement lens was going to cost nearly as much as the pair cost originally.
So, I bought some LED lights that cost less than the replacement lens was going to cost.
There were a few other little tweeks and adjustments along the way that required some cutting and welding. The first version was a fixed height, but I worried that it might cause a clearance problem for me someday, so I bought a pintle hitch mount for a 2” receiver with a lot of up-down adjustability and had a matching plate welded on the rack that carries the tool box. Now I can move it up about 8” if needed. It doesn’t seem to affect the engine or transmission cooling at all.
Two turnbuckles keep the box rock steady.
I use the box to carry a Webber grill, a Yamaha 1000 generator, a roll-up table, and a few other little things. The only problem has been that it’s a few inches too short for the generator, so I have to lean it over at an angle for the lid to shut. I have to make sure that the gas cap is on tight, the vent closed, the fuel shut off, and the carburetor side is facing up. I decided it’s time to fix that issue, so I started looking for some way to put a “bump” on the top so the Yamaha can sit up straight. Plan B is to drop a section of the bottom, but I’d have to place it to the left or right of center since the hitch tube is right in the middle. I haven’t decided which way to go yet.
I started looking for some type of aluminum pan, tray or box that I could use. I eventually discovered that some commercial cake pans are made exactly like I wanted, and would be cheaper than having something custom made. I found a pan that’s 12”x18”x3” with 90 degree sides, square welded corner seams, a flat lip around the top edge rather than rolled, and made of heavy aluminum.
So now I just need to cut a hole in the box and rivet it in place, then my generator will be able to stand up straight in the box.
:):)
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