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Mike_Up's avatar
Mike_Up
Explorer
Aug 14, 2012

Getting Rid of my Dual Cam system

I really like this system but it's such a darn pain. It's so complex no one, anywhere, has any idea how to adjust it or install it.

I just had it transferred to a new trailer and new bars also werer needed. Backed it up at home to get it in the driveway and bam, broke out the top socket of the head. I've been told here that it was installed/adjusted incorrectly and I believe that.

And now, the dealership is arguing that it was installed correctly. After talking further to them, the dealer doesn't have a clue and I can't believe they got it installed as far as they did.

I really like my Strait Line system but it's just to complex and I'm done with it.

I'm looking at going with either a EQUAL-I-ZER brand or Blue Ox brand. To be honest I really like how easy and simplistic the Blue Ox brand is. What I don't like are the very VERY vague installation instructions and their short 3 year warranty. This is the system my Dealership pushes.

It's not that the Equalizer brand is bad, I just don't like how you have to tear the head apart to get to the washer adjustments and tear down the brackets to adjust them. This system looks nearly as confusing as the Reese Strait Line (HP Dual Cam and WDH).

So is the Blue Ox inferior to the Equalizer Brand or do they both work well???

Here's a big point to me, since I have to back up at extreme angles, how do they do this. I called both makers and they said they hitches wouldn't hit the ball threads/nut when turning but what's your experience.

The Reese Strait Line system has so many binding points it's nuts. I think mine bind on the cam installation bracket, broke the top socket out of the head, the T end of the Trunnion twisted while forcing it's way out of the head, and hit the ball threads. All of this because the dealer refused to adjust the head to a greater angle to get the bars below the cam brackets. They are sticking to their guns saying you can't adjusted the head beyond the threads on the adjustment area, therefore limiting how far back they could tilt the head. They only got 5 chain links from the bar's end to the snap up bracket with a 1200 lbs bar.

So now I'm going to shell out money and hope to install this thing in a timely manner, myself, on an uneven, slanting driveway because no one in my area knows how to install a hitch unless it's a simple WDH with no sway control.

Can you believe the guys at the dealer even said it was my fault for breaking my head because I didn't take out my WDH bars before backing up. :E :E :M Guess I'm suppose to put 900 lbs on a hitch receiver that states only 500 lbs when no WDH is used?!! :M

So Guys can you help me, Equalizer brand or Blue Ox. BTW, both are about the same amount of money and both claim 4 point sway control.

98 Replies

  • I'm a farm boy and we use a pickup for hauling stuff you wouldnt believe. I have never in my life, 64 years so far, damaged 1 spring on a pickup. I've hauled 1 1/2 cord of oak fire wood on an open trailer with no lift hitch and just drug the the thing like I owned it. I put 250,000 miles on my last pickup, a Ford 7.3l diesel. I now have airride on my current pickup but I still wouldnt be afraid to drop the bars and have an Arctic Fox 31W and it ain't light.
  • Mike Up wrote:
    MitchF150 wrote:
    Here's a big point to me, since I have to back up at extreme angles, how do they do this. I called both makers and they said they hitches wouldn't hit the ball threads/nut when turning but what's your experience.


    and there is no need for "WD" when you are parking the darn thing! ;)

    Good luck with your situation.

    Mich


    Thanks but there is a need for WD because the receiver hitch is only rated for 500 lbs when using a weight bearing hitch and this will cause 50% of my rear axle weight to increase by pulling more weight off of the front. Not a big deal if you are not loaded up but if you are, you could exceed your axle ratings and damage your leaf springs. I've seen people do these things so when you're using a WDH, it's for a reason.


    for a few moments and a few feet to back your trailer in you are not going to damage your truck...cmon..think about it...I weigh over 200 lbs, if I stood on your trailer tongue are you saying I would cause damage?
  • If your backing up at an extreme angle then I wouldn't get an Equal-i-zer. I've had it installed on two trailers and I've had a problem with the brackets moving. I constantly have to torque them but they still move. I now just take off the bars when I back up. It's a pain but then I don't have to worry about it. It's funny you mention Blue Ox because that is the hitch I was thinking of switching to. I've spoken to their customer service and they are very helpful.
  • camperdave wrote:
    fwiw, I don't think it's fair to say that no one knows how to set up or adjust the dual cam setup, there are more than a few experts right here on this board!

    with my Equal-i-zer, I can jacknife until my bumper hits the trailer, the hitch never binds.


    Thanks so the Equalizer brand may be a good choice.

    I never said anyone here didn't know how to set it up. People here were the ones who shown me how it was adjusted incorrectly.

    I can never find any able bodies(that are not at this forum) that have a full understanding on how this is to be setup.
  • MitchF150 wrote:
    Here's a big point to me, since I have to back up at extreme angles, how do they do this. I called both makers and they said they hitches wouldn't hit the ball threads/nut when turning but what's your experience.


    and there is no need for "WD" when you are parking the darn thing! ;)

    Good luck with your situation.

    Mich


    Thanks but there is a need for WD because the receiver hitch is only rated for 500 lbs when using a weight bearing hitch and this will cause 50% of my rear axle weight to increase by pulling more weight off of the front. Not a big deal if you are not loaded up but if you are, you could exceed your axle ratings and damage your leaf springs. I've seen people do these things so when you're using a WDH, it's for a reason.
  • Can't speak to the other hitches, but the Equal-i-zer is about as complicated as an anvil. :? I mean, it does take a little setup time (a few hours in a level parking lot) but once it's set up it's a piece of cake to hook up and disconnect.

    fwiw, I don't think it's fair to say that no one knows how to set up or adjust the dual cam setup, there are more than a few experts right here on this board! And I don't mean internet experts, I mean people who actually do really know how to do it right. :) I'm sure if you are up to the task they could walk you through the initial setup. In my opinion, you are WAAAAY better off doing it yourself instead of having a dealer do it anyway, no matter which brand you buy.

    with my Equal-i-zer, I can jacknife until my bumper hits the trailer, the hitch never binds. That said, I always disconnect the bars before backing into my driveway since it's at an extreme angle (in addition to a tight turn) and I worry about the severe loads that the weight distribution bars would put into the A-frame of the trailer. That would be the case with any WDH though.

    Quite frankly, I don't worry about being a few hundred pounds over my hitches rating while I'm going under 5mph parking the trailer.
  • Here's a big point to me, since I have to back up at extreme angles, how do they do this. I called both makers and they said they hitches wouldn't hit the ball threads/nut when turning but what's your experience.


    I don't have either or any of the systems you mention, but I always remove the WD bars before I park my trailer in it's spot at home.. I too have to go up a steep drive way from the street and I have to jack knife it for the final move and there is no need for "WD" when you are parking the darn thing! ;)

    That's just what works for me. I have a plain jane EAZ-Lift WD setup and it works great for me.. :)

    Good luck with your situation.

    Mich

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